Where do
two people who live a county away from -- and are “frequent flyers” to Finger
Lakes wine country – go on vacation? To another wine-growing district in
another corner of the state: the North Fork of Long Island.
I know
what you’re thinking: Lawn Guyland. So close to Manhattan, yet so far. Endless
expressway, too many tolls.
Wine? On
Long Island?
Yes!
Long Island Wine Country is largely rural
and some would say quaint. The North Fork, on the eastern side of Long Island, is
dotted with charming towns and villages and feels more like New England than
New York.
The
region boasts 30-plus wineries, and Trip Advisor recently named it one of the Top 10 wine
destinations in the U.S. (the Finger Lakes also made the list). In addition
to a growing number of excellent boutique wines, the North Fork boasts fresh
seafood, locally grown produce and “locavore’’ cuisine.
To get there, we
bypassed New York City and its traffic congestion by taking the Cross Sound
Ferry from New London, CT to Orient Point, NY – an hour-plus ride that costs
about $145 round-trip, with car and bicycles.
We spent four
nights in the Suffolk County town of Mattituck. Mother Nature blessed us with
day after day of brilliant September sunshine, temperatures in the mid-70s and
cool nights, perfect for sleeping.
Here are some
highlights from our travels:
BED, BREAKFAST AND BEYOND
Lenn Thompson,
Executive Editor of the New York Cork
Report (and its Long Island and Hudson Valley wine correspondent),
suggested we consider a stay at Shinn
Estate Vineyards and Farmhouse. And we are so glad he did.
The
winery-distillery and four-room farmhouse bed and breakfast inn is operated by
winegrower Barbara Shinn and her husband, chef-vintner-distiller David Page.
In
their past life, they owned and operated Home, one of the first farm-to-table
restaurants in New York City – so you KNOW the farmhouse breakfast is going to
be something special.
We spent four
nights in the Porchside
Room, a few steps from the common room, where Shinn wines and snacks are
served each afternoon, and from the sunny breakfast room.
Farmhouse omelet, Shinn Estate Vineyards and Farmhouse Bed and Breakfast
We enjoyed
chatting with other guests each morning and sharing a wonderful but not overly
indulgent hyper-local breakfast before heading out on our bicycles: Long Island
fruit and yogurt smoothies, omelets and frittatas prepared with eggs from the
farm’s chickens, grilled homemade banana bread, etc.
Each evening,
we returned to find a tray of tiny homemade cookies on our bed. Sweet dreams,
indeed.
VINEYARD HOPPING
Diehards might
attempt to visit every winery on the North Fork, but we culled the list down to
eight to 10 we’d like to visit, time permitting.
We hit a couple
of the larger vineyards, like Bedell Cellars and the Lenz Winery, but got the
most enjoyment – and personal attention – from smaller, family operations like McCall Vineyards in Cutchogue and Mattebella Vineyards in
Southold.
At Mattebella,
co-owner Christine Tobin presided over tastings on the patio, supplying bread
and cheese to taste along with food friendly wines and taking us on a tour of
the vineyards.
Mattebella Vineyards co-owner Christine Tobin (in hat) leads a tour.
The tasting
room at McCall is in a potato barn turned stable that exudes rustic charm and
lacks heat – so it’s open only seasonally.
Meanwhile, back
at Shinn Estate, complimentary tastings of the full portfolio – reds, whites,
blends, sparklers, an addictive dry Rose – are available for guests.
Coming from the
land of Riesling, it was refreshing to taste so many excellent North Fork reds
and Roses – most of which never make their way Upstate.
LOCAL FOOD AND FRESH CATCHES
The growing
season was still in full swing on the North Fork, with roadside stands brimming
with tomatoes, peaches and late-season berries and corn.
Latham Farmstand, Orient Point, NY.
One of the best
meals we had was at Love Lane Kitchen,
a small, unpretentious cafe in the village of Mattituck that’s open for
breakfast, lunch and dinner.
A weeknight
reservation wasn’t really necessary, but a call ahead let us know that the
restaurant was without a liquor license but we were welcome to bring our own
wine.
We chose a
bottle of McCall Pinot Noir – which, paired with the McCall grass-fed beef
burger on the menu – made for an all-McCall meal for one of us.
A boat ride
with a cousin and her husband to Long
Island’s South Fork rewarded us with a taste of some of the freshest tuna
we’ve ever had, courtesy of the Canal
Cafe, on the Shinnecock Canal in Hampton Bays.
The cafe’s
picnic-paper plate vibe – and menu featuring lobster rolls and fried fish
sandwiches, as well as more exotic daily specials – made us think Cape Cod or
Maine rather than swanky Hamptons.
For dessert: a beautiful Long
Island sunset.
SOUVENIRS
We headed home to
Upstate New York with a mixed case of local wines – and a bottle of Barbara Shinn’s artisan red wine
vinegar – to remind us of our special time on the North Fork of Long Island.
We’ll be back,
some day, for another round of winery visits.
Salute!