Eat First

Sweet Life of a Baker, Sherrill

Do you ever wonder what becomes of the contestants on competition shows like “The Great British Bake Off’’ and its stateside spinoff, “The Great American Baking Show,’’ after the cameras stop rolling and all the episodes have aired?

Andrea Maranville, of Sherrill (Oneida County), a self-taught home cook and baker who appeared on season four of “The Great American Baking Show’’ in 2018, has been immersed in both the art of baking and the hard work of getting a small business up and running.

She was named “star baker’’ on the first week of the show -- when she impressed the judges with her cinnamon blueberry coffee cake and great grandmother’s chocolate cake -- and after weeks of challenging "bakes'' finished as a runner-up. Four years later, she has transitioned to life as a professional baker in her hometown. In October of 2021, Maranville opened Sweet Life of a Baker, a boutique bakery and cafe in “the Silver City.’’ 

I’ve been following Andrea on social media since I heard her interviewed on the Eat Local New York podcast, and took a drive to Sherrill recently to have lunch at Sweet Life of a Baker. I had the opportunity to meet her – thanks to her mother, who was helping out at the bakery and facilitated an introduction. Andrea was coming off of a busy Mother's Day weekend that left the dessert case empty and said she was gearing up for graduations, weddings and other special events.

Lunch did not disappoint. I was immediately drawn to the bakery case and cake servers filled with muffins, scones, cookies, cakes, macarons, brownies, biscotti, creme brulee, panna cotta and other treats, but knew I’d be getting a dessert to take home and enjoy later. So I went somewhat light for lunch with a spinach and Gruyere quiche for one, which is built on the all-butter, flaky crust Andrea perfected during pie week on “The Great American Baking Show.”  The quiches are served with your choice of mixed greens (with citrus or balsamic vinaigrette) or a cup of mixed berries. If you’re dining in, like I did, a server will heat up the quiche and bring it to you.

Other lunch offerings include a soup of the day, several salads (including a wedge salad and panzanella salad) and gourmet deli sandwiches, like ham off-the-bone with Hornbacher cheese from Callee 1945, a cheese shop in Oneida, served on bread from Salt City Bread in Manlius. Nothing too fancy or froufrou – Andrea’s approach is to serve high-quality foods she and her family love and to support other small businesses. The housemade chips served with sandwiches are from Crust Kitchen and Bar in Rome. And the coffee served at Sweet Life of a Baker is a special “baker’s blend” roasted for the cafe by Cracked Bean Roastery in Syracuse (where you can also find Andrea's baked goods). Click here for the lunch menu.

I brought my planner with me and got some work done from the seating area. Andrea has given the small space, with seating for about 20 people, the ambiance of a home dining room, with wooden tables, upholstered chairs and area rugs. Now that it’s warming up, there’s also patio seating.

As for dessert: I brought home a sweet little four-inch cheesecake. It was dense and rich, with a graham cracker crust on the bottom and berries and swirls of whipped cream on top. It was the perfect size for sharing.

Sweet Life of a Baker takes its name from the food blog Andrea launched in 2015. She’s a wife and mom of four children and was looking for a creative outlet and a place to share recipes. Look how far she’s come in that time. When your travels take you to the Oneida area, be sure to check her place out.

Sweet Life of a Baker is at 552 Sherrill Road, Sherrill. Hours are 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday to Saturday. Custom orders are available. Information: 315-280-4975

All photos © Margaret McCormick unless otherwise indicated.

 

Maggies Trackside Diner, Liverpool

I was happy to see recently that the little diner near the railroad tracks and Heid's, in the village of Liverpool, is open again -- and called Maggies (sic) Trackside Diner.

For a long time, this was the home of the American Diner, which served up Conservative politics along with eggs and bacon and earned a reputation as "maybe the most politically incorrect diner in the Empire State -- and possibly the nation'' (Fox News). 

 

The American Diner closed in July and its replacement, Maggies, debuted in late August. I stopped in on a recent Sunday, newspaper in hand, and took a seat at the horseshoe-shaped counter. The new proprietor, Maggie (Giacovelli Voultsios), wiped the counter, greeted guests and poured coffee. A gentleman seated next to me remarked that the place has been cleaned, painted and "spruced up.'' It's now decorated in a railroad motif, with train art and graphics. In addition to the counter seats, there are about 12 tables.

 

The menu is short and sweet, with the usual diner line-up: eggs every way, pancakes, waffles, omelets, etc. If you're super hungry, you'll also find things like a mashed potato omelet, biscuit and gravy bowl and giambrotte -- which the menu describes as a "Utica favorite,'' with eggs, hot and sweet peppers, home fries, Italian sausage, cheese and Italian toast. On another visit, I bet I can convince my usual diner mate to try it.

 

I ordered what has become my diner breakfast go-to: two eggs sunny side up, meat, hash browns/homefries and toast ($6.95), with coffee. In this case, the meat was Gianelli Italian sausage and the potatoes were hash browns, nicely crisped. The place was pretty packed, but it didn't take long for my food to arrive -- I was still working on the front section of the newspaper. Everything was cooked to order and hot.

 

I love diners and the diner tradition in America -- there's something quaint and comforting and Norman Rockwell-esque about them, with people from all walks of life bonding over breakfast out, prepared by someone else. I drive through Liverpool often and will definitely stop in again for my "usual'' -- and some conversation at the counter, hold the politics.

 

Maggies Trackside Diner is at 214 Oswego St., Liverpool. Hours are 6 a.m. to 2 p.m., seven days a week. Breakfast is served all day, and lunch specials feature comfort foods like meatloaf and macaroni and cheese, with rice pudding for dessert. Information: (315) 802-6696, Facebook

 

 

 

Bailiwick Market & Cafe, Elbridge

If you're among the thousands of drivers who travel along Route 5 near Elbridge, you've no doubt been watching the big, red, contemporary barn-like structure taking shape across the road from Tessy Plastics.

That's Bailiwick Market & Cafe and it brings to Elbridge a combination of many things under one roof: a cafe serving breakfast, lunch and supper; ice cream parlor with soft serve and (eventually) homemade hard-pack ice cream; coffee bar and drive-through (coming soon) serving Cafe Kubal coffee; local goods marketplace featuring locally produced foods and locally made art; and, most important of all, a community gathering space.

The business is owned by Nancy Hourigan, of Hourigan's Dairy Farm, who has been supported in the project by an all-woman team, including assistant manager Meg Schader, co-owner of Wake Robin Farm, Jordan, general manager Nona Gormley and head barista Jo Ann Schneider.

I stopped at Bailiwick Market & Cafe for lunch last week, during its "soft opening." Head chef Susanne "Cookie" Wheeler, who for many years served as executive chef at Pumpkin Hill Bistro, in Aurora, has put together a  seasonal and local-inspired menu of soups, sandwiches, salads, entrees (like chicken pot pie and beef stew) and grab and go items.

 

Bailiwick is a destination worth checking out. Bring a cooler: A refrigerated case is stocked with local eggs, cheeses, cheese curds and yogurt from Wake Robin Farm, 4 Tin Fish Farm (goat dairy) and others.

 

THE VIBE: Casual country chic, with vaulted ceilings, lots of light and seating for about 50, including a comfy sofa and chairs in addition to tables. Seating is available outside in warmer weather. Place your order at the counter and grab a seat. You'll be given a number and your food will be delivered to you.

 

 

CHOWING DOWN: The Seymour Loft Spinach Salad ($8.49) features spinach, local apples, candied walnuts, dried cranberries and New York cheddar cheese, served with a bacon maple vinaigrette. The spinach was fresh as can be and the salad also contained bites of bacon. Had I realized that, I probably wouldn't have ordered it with chicken ($3 extra), which made the salad into a meal. 

 

WHAT'S A VEGETARIAN GOING TO FIND? Grilled cheese, harvest garden salad and the Vinegar Hill Veggie sandwich, which contains grilled vegetables, spinach and feta topped with balsamic glaze, on ciabatta bread. Look for more vegetarian options as the local growing season kicks into full gear.

 

SAVE ROOM FOR DESSERT? Yes! Chef Wheeler clearly loves to bake and the bakery case is filled with giant cookies, cupcakes, lemon bars, cinnamon buns, muffins, scones and other treats. I skipped dessert and tried a maple latte, flavored with maple from Skaneateles Sugar Shack. Dessert in a cappuccino cup - maple and coffee go together just fine! 

 

WOULD WE GO BACK? Absolutely. It's a must stop when in the Elbridge, Auburn and Skaneateles areas.

 

NEXT TIME: Maybe the chicken pot pie. That sounds so comforting. Or the Hamilton Ham sandwich, with apple butter and gouda cheese. In summer, when local tomatoes are in season, we'll try the Bailiwick BLT with applewood smoked bacon.

 

Bailiwick Market and Cafe is at 441 Route 5 West, Elbridge, across the road from Tessy Plastics. From downtown Syracuse, plan on a 25 minute drive Soft open/interim hours are 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Saturday and 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. Grand opening weekend is this Saturday and Sunday (May 14 and May 15). Hours both days are 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Information: 277-5632, http://bailiwickmarket.com

 

 

The Fish Friar, Solvay

A small, storefront restaurant and take-out operation offering a fresh take on the iconic Central New York fish fry is earning positive word-of-mouth and bringing diners to Solvay.

 

The Fish Friar opened in late fall on Milton Avenue, across the street from the Solvay Diner. Owners Joel Canino, Giovanni Giardina and Brad Vinciguerra have created a destination for fresh fish -- plus unique side dishes -- that's simply but elegantly prepared.  If you like fish fry, or fish prepared more healthily, check it out.

 

THE VIBE: Clean and industrial. The sleek, stainless steel order counter and open kitchen area feature a series of black and white signs detailing the menu, sides and soups of the day. There's seating for six at a counter along the front window and for about six more at a community table fashioned from an old door and topped with glass. I ate lunch at one of the counter seats and was slightly concerned I might leave smelling of fried fish. Either the place has an excellent ventilation system or I am immune to the smell of fried food.  

 

 

CHOWING DOWN: The simple menu lists five sandwiches, four "plates," one lunch/supper salad and homemade sides, like macaroni salad, potato salad, coleslaw, rice pilaf, roasted carrots (roasted carrots!!) and mushy peas. When is the last time you had mushy peas -- or saw them on a menu?  Not into fried fish? The menu offers broiled haddock and sautéed shrimp, with your choice of sides. How nice to have some healthy options at a fish-fry!

 

The Friar salad with crispy shrimp ($12; above) called out to me. It features mixed greens, pickled onions, grape tomatoes, shredded carrots and -- surprise! -- chopped French fries as a garnish. The salad, arranged beautifully and served in a stainless steel bowl, was topped with five large, perfectly fried shrimp. I'm not sure what's in the coating, but it's super crispy. Ritz Crackers? Corn Flakes? The homemade salad dressing was light and fresh. Executive chef Giovanni Giardina, who previously worked at Alto Cinco and Otro Cinco in Syracuse, adds basil, mint and other fresh herbs to his vinaigrette. 

 

I took home a container of the soup du jour, Spicy Sherry Cream Haddock Stew, for my other half to enjoy later. The stew was the consistency of a rich, thick chowder, with chunks of haddock and potatoes, and plenty of heat (with a bit of an afterburn). It was delicious, worth driving out of your way for. It is served every Friday.  

 

SAVE ROOM FOR DESSERT: One or two chef-made desserts, like cheesecake and cookies, are offered each day. The chocolate chip cookies ($2) would be easy to fall for.

 

WHAT'S A VEGETARIAN GOING TO FIND? Not much. French fries and salad. Vegetarians could make a meal of the sides, like roasted carrots, mushy peas and rice pilaf.

 

NEXT TIME: I'll try the lobster roll (offered both as a cold sandwich with mayonnaise dressing and as a hot sandwich, with butter) or the fried/broiled haddock plate with sides. 

 

THE TAB: $14 and change for the salad and a bottled water, plus $9 for the stew to go.

 

The Fish Friar is at 2409 Milton Ave., Solvay. Hours are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and 12 p.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday.  

Phone: 315-468-3474

Website Facebook

 

 

The Ridge Tavern, Chittenango: a hidden gem

The Ridge Tavern is a restaurant that's off-the-beaten path. You could easily drive by it on Salt Springs Road in Chittenango -- we almost did. The sign doesn't scream at you and the tavern itself is about a third of a mile off the road, through the woods and overlooking the Robert Trent Jones-designed Ridge golf course.

We don't play golf, but we do have a handful of friends who live near Chittenango, and three of them were at the restaurant the Friday we visited. We took that as a good sign. With its interesting menus, well-executed food and friendly, professional service, it didn't take us long to conclude what people in the know already know: The Ridge Tavern is a hidden gem. It's also a community treasure. The restaurant was created to support next-door neighbor Clear Path for Veterans, a non-profit whose mission is to help those who serve.

THE VIBE: Planters flanking the main door are brimming with fresh herbs, a cue that the kitchen takes food seriously. Inside, the vibe is casual and relaxed but not so laid back you're left to seat yourself. A hostess greeted us at the door and offered us our choice of seating on one of three levels. It was raining for about the fourth time that day, otherwise we might have chosen to eat outside on the multi-level decks. The tavern room is small and lodge-like, with a fireplace and tables that seat roughly 30 people. The bar was busy but not overly raucous, so a highboy table a few feet from the bar worked fine. A band was setting up for the night as we finished our meal.

LIQUID ASSETS: A short list of local and regional craft beers changes weekly and the extensive bourbon list will have bourbon lovers salivating. While sipping a pint of amber ale by Erie Canal Brewing (Canastota) and a Captain Morgan's on the rocks, we studied the menus -- a tavern menu and more elaborate dinner menu, with entrees like New York strip steak with garlic mashed potatoes ($25) and chile-braised short ribs served with cheesy polenta ($23).


CHOWING DOWN: In order to sample a variety of items from the menu, we ordered… an excessive amount of food. Robert's celery soup ($6) was pale green and subtle in flavor, just like you would expect from a soup made with a vegetable usually featured in a supporting role. The basket of bacon ($9) was one of the most decadent appetizers we've ever ordered -- who, after all, really needs a basket of bacon before dinner?! A paper-lined basket holds about nine strips of The Ridge's crispy, applewood smoked, peppery bacon -- yum.

 

The red, white and blue salad with chicken ($12) featured a deep bowl of greens tossed with berries, grapes, almonds and gorgonzola and topped with grilled chicken. Robert ordered the burger of the day, cooked to medium and topped with a bourbon glaze and caramelized onions. The burger came with housemade kettle chips but we had to try the Ridge's sweet potato fries ($8) -- actually sweet potato wedges (some slightly undercooked) drizzled with a sweet-mildly spicy glaze and served with sour cream on the side.

SAVE ROOM FOR DESSERT? Yes. Desserts are made in-house and the menu changes often. Selections included strawberry-rhubarb crisp, carrot cake, a pecan caramel brownie, homemade ice cream and bread pudding, among others. The bread pudding of the day was dense and gooey, studded with banana chunks and chocolate chips and served warm with whipped cream. We couldn't finish it.
 
WHAT'S A VEGETARIAN GOING TO FIND? There's a Mediterranean plate with hummus, tzatziki, olives, feta, peppers and grilled pita and several vegetarian grilled flatbread pizzas, including one with pesto, New York cheddar, roasted red peppers, caramelized onion and mozzarella. There's also several salads, including a classic Caesar.

DAMAGES: Dinner for two, with one beer, one mixed drink, one burger, one salad, too many appetizers and one dessert came to almost $70. You can dine well on less and for considerably less. 

WOULD WE GO BACK? We can't wait to go back! The Ridge is open year-round. We want to eat outside on the deck while it's warm before contemplating cozy evenings by the fire. 

NEXT TIME: We'll try the catfish tacos with cilantro-lime crema, "fried golf balls" (fresh mozzarella dusted with Panko crumbs and Parmesan cheese) and maybe the Chicken "Ridgies" -- The Ridge's version of regional specialty Chicken Riggies.

The Ridge Tavern is at 1281 Salt Springs Road, Chittenango. Summer hours are noon to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and noon to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Information: 315-687-6900, website.

 

 

Syracuse Food Truck Rodeos: Get on board!

From deep-friend peanut butter and jelly sandwiches to udon noodle Asian stir-fry to Filipino-style eggrolls filled with seasoned beef and pork to artisan wood-fired pizza to tater tots smothered in spicy sauce -- there's a food truck offering to suit every taste.

It took some time for them to catch on in Syracuse and it took some time for them to find a regular home, but if you have an adventurous appetite and an appreciation for "street eats,'' get yourself over to the weekly Food Truck Rodeos, held from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. each Wednesday, in the parking lot of the Cosmopolitan Building, 1153 W. Fayette St., Syracuse.

Everything and anything that can be prepared in a cramped kitchen and plated and served out the window of a truck or trailer (or from a cart) can be found at these events.

We visited the Food Truck Rodeo at suppertime on May 6, after the official hours of the food truck rodeo and before the first "Flicks al Fresco'' outdoor movie offering of the season, which, appropriately, was "Chef,'' a sweet movie about a fine-dining chef who rediscovers his creative promise as a food truck operator.

The food truck rodeos, an offering of the newly formed Syracuse Food Truck Association, got underway in April and were originally scheduled to begin at 11 a.m. and continue through 6 p.m. each week. But the vendors were running out of food earlier than anticipated and hours have been reduced, according to Michael John Heagerty, of NOExcuses Tours, who is helping to promote the events and is hosting the "Flicks al Fresco" film series with Nomad Cinema. The rodeos now run until 3:30 p.m., give or take, and several trucks stay on hand or come in later in the afternoon to feed the "Flicks al Fresco'' crowd. 

The week we visited, about a half-dozen trucks were there before the movie (which is shown on a huge outdoor screen), including PB&J's Lunch Box, Shattuck's Paddy Wagon, Sarita's Mmmpanadas, Oompa Loompyas, Mami's Kitchen and Toss 'n' Fire Wood-Fired Pizza.

We sampled as much as we could.

Sarita Ruiz's empanadas (hand-formed, deep-fried Spanish-style pastries) went down easy. We shared an order of three ($6): beef and cheese, chicken, cilantro and lime and chicken and cheese -- kind of redundant, but she was running low on offerings. The chicken cilantro lime had nice, subtle flavor, while the beef and cheese packed more punch and a bit of heat. It's hard to resist deep fried dough with meat and cheese inside. I'd order both of these again, no problem.

George Shattuck's sriracha tots (with a sriracha cheese sauce; $4.50) were deep-fried and crispy good -- and reacquainted us with a childhood favorite food we haven't had since about the age of 12.

Last stop was Toss 'n' Fire Wood-Fired Pizza for a basic Margherita pizza (basil, mozzarella and tomato; $9). These are personal-sized pizzas cooked in a mobile, wood-fired oven. We would have liked the crust a little more brown and a little less dough-y, but these guys are just getting started. We'll be back to try a Fig and Pig (fig preserves, mozzarella, gorgonzola and prosciutto) and 'Cuse Salt Potato pizza (caramelized onions, cheddar, mozzarella, bacon and thinly sliced salt potatoes). 

I went back  to the Food Truck Rodeo at lunchtime on a subsequent Wednesday and found the vendors doing a brisk business. A couple tables were set-up, and people were chowing down outside, even on a chilly, overcast day. The Korean chicken tacos from The Chicken Bandit ($3.25 each) were worth the drive across town, a delicious medley of tastes, textures and seasonings, with a little heat.

Can't make it to the Food Truck Rodeo on Wednesdays? Good news: A second Food Truck Rodeo is now being held 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Thursdays at Missio Church, 620 W. Genesee St., Syracuse. Bring your appetite, your friends and your co-workers and check out what's cookin' from these culinary entrepreneurs who take to the streets of Syracuse and Central New York.

Good eats in Bouckville: Ray Brothers Barbeque

Antique hunters by the thousands will be drawn to Madison County this weekend for the annual Madison-Bouckville Antique Fest. We'll be among them, hunting for our favorite old and vintage things -- and lining up for a table at Ray Brothers Barbecue.

We visited the new barbecue restaurant -- or "RBQ,'' as they call it --  in June, shortly after it opened, and enjoyed some of the best pulled pork and barbecued chicken we've had in Central New York. It's sure to be crowded during Antique Fest weekend, but there's a small bar, about 50 seats inside and a huge deck with seating outside. There's even a horseshoe pit if you have time to play a few rounds.

 

The menu is limited to one page -- a nice change from multi-page menus that sometimes make decisions difficult.

 

Over cold beers, we shared a plate of hush puppies (fried cornmeal balls) -- deep brown and delicious. "Loud puppies,'' made with jalapeno peppers, are also available.

 

I'm not sure who "The Judge'' is, but "The Judge's Half Chicken'' was fall-off-the-bone tender, with a nice smoky flavor. It reminded me a little of the chicken at Brooks House of BBQ, in Oneonta.

 

The hot link "sandie" featured housemade Italian sausage, topped with sauteed peppers and onions, on a soft roll. Our friend Mike loved the combination of moist, smoky-sweet Carolina pulled pork served with crispy slaw on top.

 

Platters like the The Judge's chicken come with two sides and cornbread, though the cornbread was missing on my plate (not that I really needed it, along with sweet potato fries). "Sandies'' like the hot links and pulled pork are served with pickles and one side.

 

The vegetarian in our party enjoyed a sampler of sides (above left; photo by Maureen Nolan): coleslaw, barbecue baked beans and dirty potato salad. She described the beans as full of BBQ flavor and slightly sweet (they turned out to contain some meat), the slaw as lightly dressed and a nice change from the usual mayonnaise dressed slaw, and the potato salad as also packing some barbecue punch.

 

The menu lists just two desserts, apple crisp and maple bacon cheesecake. We had some qualms about the cheesecake, but the combination of sweet, salty and creamy -- with crunch on top from crispy-crumbled bacon and maple in the accomanying sauce -- is delicious and memorable. It's a dessert I would never make at home, but one I think about from time to time.

 

If we get back to Ray Brothers this weekend, we might give the jumbo smoked wings or "RBQd'' meatloaf a try. That sounds interesting and comforting.

 

Ray Brothers Barbecue is at 6474 Route 20, just west of Bouckville. Follow your nose! Information: 315-893-7200. 

 

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No wonder Oneonta crows about Brooks' chicken

Stepping out: Sampling Syracuse Food Tours

Courtesy of Sampling Syracue Food Tours

 

At the start of the July 19 Sampling Syracuse Food Tour, Kate Gillen said she had three goals: Keep the group entertained. Immerse us in downtown Syracuse history. Moderately fill our bellies.

 

She succeeded on all three counts.

 

Kate launched Sampling Syracuse Food Tours in October 2012.  By the end of last year, she had taken hundreds of visitors, representing 21 states and 14 countries, on walk-able, eat-able tours of downtown Syracuse. That's impressive!

 

Full disclosure: Kate invited me take a tour, which normally costs $40, and I accepted. 

 

The tour starts at Kitty Hoynes Irish Pub and Restaurant in Armory Square, and if you arrive early enough, you can enjoy a Bloody Mary or Guinness before tour time. Our first sample featured a small plate of Irish bacon and cabbage with horseradish cream sauce atop a potato pancake. A small wedge of Kitty Hoynes' house favorite soda bread garnished the plate and a sample-size pour of Smithwick's Irish red ale came on the side.

 

The tour then took us on a stroll along the Onondaga Creekwalk to Franklin Square, for a pick-me-up at Freedom of Espresso. The coffee shop offering changes each week and depending on the season, Gillen said. We enjoyed a coconut-almond iced cafe au lait and continued through the square, stopping for a look at Franklin Square landmarks like the Mission Landing apartments and the old New Process Gear water tower.

 

Next stop: Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, for a pulled pork slider and side of macaroni and cheese. Want to avoid a long wait at the Dinosaur? Take the tour! A picnic table was waiting for us outside, in the beer garden area, "reserved" sign on top.

 

From there, we headed over  to Clinton Square and the Jerry Rescue Monument, then to Perseverance Park on South Salina Street, to take in the "Flowscape" public art project. From a nice, shady spot, Kate pointed out the recently completed Pike Block project, which she has toured, and described its variety of living spaces.

 

Next stop: Pastabilities, for two of its signatures, stretch bread and spicy hot tomato oil. Pastabilities moved to Armory Square in 1985, Gillen noted, and in so doing sparked the neighborhood's revitalization.

 

We strolled past the former Jefferson Street Armory (now home to the MOST -- the Milton J. Rubenstein Museum of Science and Technology), the Jefferson Clinton Hotel, a historic gem that was the tallest building in Syracuse when it was built in 1927 and the Landmark Theatre on the way to our final stop: Gannons Ice Cream.

 

At Gannons, we enjoyed a "flight" of three homemade, hard-pack ice creams: caramel cashew, almond pistachio and orange pineapple.

 

That concluded our tour on a sweet note, indeed.

 

By weekday, Kate is a speech pathologist at a local middle school. She is an outgoing, engaging tour guide, and her love for downtown Syracuse -- its food, its history and its ongoing evolution -- shows.

 

The July 19 tour included a mix of locals and visitors: a couple from Cazenovia, two sisters (one who recently moved back to her hometown from Providence, RI, the other a graduate student at SUNY Binghamton); a Syracuse native who has been living in Spain and is in the process of moving back to New York State, and her brother, who lives in South Carolina.

 

Sampling Syracuse Food Tours are offered at noon Saturdays, rain or shine, through fall. Private tours can also be arranged with advance planning. For more information, CLICK HERE or email [email protected].

 

Tips:

 

• Don't dismiss the downtown food tour because you're a local. Tours are designed to appeal to visitors and locals alike, and you're sure to learn things you didn't know before.

 

• Bring a portable umbrella if the forecast looks gloomy. Tours are held rain or shine.

 

• Wear comfortable shoes -- tours cover about two miles (and last about three hours).

 

• Bring some spending money. You might want to pick up some Spicy Hot Tomato Oil or some Dinosaur barbecue sauce.

 

• Looking for a unique gift for someone? Consider a gift certificate for a Sampling Syracuse Food Tour. Visit the website for details. 

 

Salad days in Central New York

A lovely take on antipasto salad, at Pascale's Italian Bistro (800 Nottingham Road, Syracuse; at Drumlins Country Club). The only thing missing was olives.

When the weather gets hot, things like soups and stews lose their appeal -- and things cool, green and crunchy gain appeal.

We grow salad greens in our garden box at home and love stepping out the kitchen door to snip lettuces and arugula -- the ultimate in fresh salads. At restaurants, the first menu items we turn to, usually, are the salads.

Here are a few excellent salads we've known and loved in our dining adventures in Central New York.  Keep reading for a copycat version (with recipe) of Alto Cinco's popular Berry Salad.


What: Turkey Quinoa Salad
Where: Mello Velo Cafe (and Bicycle Shop), 550-556 Westcott St., second floor, Syracuse
Why it's special: This relatively new menu item at Mello Velo starts with a bed of baby spinach. It's topped with curry-roasted turkey, quinoa, sliced pear, crumbled blue cheese, almonds, golden raisins and scallions, and served with scallion vinaigrette on the side.

Can you say healthy? 


The Turkey Quinoa Salad joins the Couscous Salad (Israeli toasted couscous, almonds, dried cranberries and chickpeas, tossed with lemon and spices and served atop fresh field greens with feta and seasonal vinaigrette) as a Mello Velo menu favorite. Some day soon, I'll have to try the Quinoa "Cobb" Salad.
For more information on Mello Velo, including menu, CLICK HERE.  


What: Berry Salad
Where: Alto Cinco, 526 Westcott St., Syracuse
Why it's special: Sliced avocado, sliced strawberries, blueberries and goat cheese take this salad, on a bed of mixed greens, to a whole other dimension in salads. It's an excellent combination of tastes and textures, all dressed lightly with balsamic vinaigrette. Add a side of jalapeno cornbread and I'm in heaven. Next time, I might have to splurge on the Jerk Chicken or Shrimp Salad.
For more information on Alto Cinco, including menu, CLICK HERE. 


What: Apple Walnut Salad (and others)
Where: Cafe at 407, 407 Tulip St., Liverpool
Why it's special: I order this salad almost every time I go for a pour-over coffee and WiFi and end up staying for lunch at Cafe at 407. It features mixed greens and so many good things: apples, walnuts, beets, blue cheese and dried cranberries, tossed with balsamic vinaigrette. For $2 more, add chicken. 

This salad is a standing menu item at Cafe at 407. The photo shows a salad special that featured mixed

greens with local beets, mandarin orange, toasted walnuts, chickpeas and dill-Dijon vinaigrette. It was delicious. Also, the Cafe's Root Veggie Picnic Salad is calling my name...

For more information on Cafe at 407, including menu, CLICK HERE. 

More salads to check out:

Mambo Salad, The Mission, Syracuse: If I had a dollar for every time I've ordered the Mambo Salad, I'd ... buy you a Mambo Salad for lunch. It's a crispy flour tortilla bowl  with romaine, black beans, avocado, oranges, pico de gallo and cotija, a Mexican grating cheese, tossed with a delicious pineapple-cilantro vinaigrette. 

Signature Baby Bleu Salad, Diamond Catering Roadside Cafe, Onondaga: The Baby Bleu Salad combines field greens, fried pancetta, dried cranberries, fresh strawberries and blueberries, crumbled Maytag bleu cheese and deep fried croutons. Chef Dan Seeley and his wife, Teresa, make the sweet onion and blueberry dressing in house. They sell it in Mason jars and plan to have it professionally bottled soon.

Trail Mix Salad, Sparky Town, Syracuse: Mixed greens with raisins, dried cranberries, almonds, pecans and shredded cheddar cheese. It's sweet, slightly salty and crunchy. 

Tableside Caesar salad for two, Joey's Classic Italian Restaurant, Syracuse. You can order a Caesar salad off the menu just about anywhere. A Caesar salad for two prepared tableside is an art - and a treat.  

Spinach salad, Phoebe's, Syracuse: Phoebe's has had some form of spinach salad on the menu for as long as I can remember. Chef Dan Hudson's current menu features a spinach salad with baby spinach, chopped hard-boiled egg, bacon, red onion, feta cheese and red wine vinaigrette.

What's your favorite salad at CNY restaurant? Leave a note in the Comments section, below.

 

Berry Salad for Two (inspired by Alto Cinco)

Local strawberries are in season now and blueberries will be in season soon, so there's no better time for this salad.

You will need:

6 cups mixed salad greens

1 ripe avocado, pitted and sliced

2/3 cup sliced strawberries

2/3 cup blueberries

Balsamic Vinaigrette Dressing (see recipe, below)

For garnish: 2 Kids Goat Farm Peppercorn Goat Cheese (or other goat cheese)

Place salad greens in a bowl. Toss greens with dressing and divide between two salad plates.

Spoon strawberries and blueberries on top of salad, giving each its own space. Add sliced avocado. Garnish with goat cheese and freshly ground pepper. Makes 2 servings.

Balsamic Vinaigrette Dressing: Combine 1/3 cup olive oil and 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar in a jar. Shake well. Taste. Add a little honey for a touch of sweetness, if desired. Shake again; serve. 

Dining Out: S2 Bistro, Scotch 'n' Sirloin, Syracuse

Summer is coming. Eventually. It's gotta be. We're looking forward to warm days on the veranda and in the yard.

Until then, there is the open-pit fireplace in the S2 Bistro at the Scotch 'n' Sirloin. Cozy tables for two ring the fireplace. Sit there for a while, and you'll wish you were wearing short sleeves.

 

Also, there is the food. In case you've been hibernating the last six months, Yann Guigne, former chef and co-owner of L'Adour Restaurant Francais (RIP) in Syracuse, has joined the Scotch as executive chef. His French touches are making a mark on the bistro menu, and last fall he introduced a new menu, the first in seven years, in the Scotch's dining room.

 

I cannot speak for the traditional steakhouse half of this landmark Syracuse restaurant -- it has been several years since we've eaten in the dining room. But the S2 Bistro is one of our favorite places.

 

We love that you can go for a drink and get warm by the fire. We like that there's complimentary popcorn and peanuts and that you toss the peanut shells on the floor. We like the community tables, which promote mingling with other patrons and offer a good view of multiple TV screens when a Syracuse University basketball game is on. And we love that we can have a casual meal of a couple really nice not-so-small plates and share things easily.

 

We went to the bistro for a belated Valentine's Day treat. Here's what we found.

 

THE VIBE: Cozy, intimate, warm, convivial, rustic, romantic. The bar is lively and so are the community tables. If you're after a more quiet meal, ask for one of the booths towards the back of the room.

 

LIQUID ASSETS: Beer, a nice selection of wines by the glass and bottle, signature cocktails and a long list of scotches and whiskeys for those who like the hard stuff. We would like to see more New York wines on the wine list.

 

THE MENU: The Bistro menu changes a couple times a year and includes soups, salads, seafood and fish, a flatbread pizza, burgers, sandwiches and pasta.

 

WHAT'S A VEGETARIAN GOING TO FIND: Pretty slim pickings - this is a steakhouse, after all. The fall/winter menu offers Mushroom Fettucini tossed with tossed with shiitake, oyster, Paris mushrooms, Parmesan and truffle cream sauce -- order it minus the bacon and grilled chicken. There is a warm goat cheese baguette with herbs de Provence over mesclun greens. Also, truffle French fries with black truffle creme.

 

THE FOOD: We shared a lovely cheese plate ($16) that contained goat cheese, Camembert, blue cheese, Cheddar, walnuts, dried apricots and prunes, berry preserves and a pile of mesclun greens. Part of us wanted to ask for more baguette slices, but we knew if we kept eating bread and cheese we would spoil our next course.

 

I've loved every bite of the Poached Eggs Meurette ($9) twice now. Two perfectly cooked eggs are served on baguette slices, with bacon, onions, mushrooms, red wine sauce and mesclun greens. It's a really savory and elegant way of having breakfast for dinner, and Yann says the dish is a runaway hit with diners, who probably will complain if he removes it from the menu.

 

The slider plate ($12.50) stars all-natural, grass-fed angus beef from Drover Hill Farm, Madison County. The burgers were cooked to medium-rare, as ordered. Robert would have liked a more delicate roll with the sliders, to show off the flavor of the local beef. The burgers come with pickled green beans and French fries on the side.

 

Who can resist a ramekin of creme brulee ($6)? Not us. Creme brulee is one of our favorite desserts. The custard was thick and rich and not too sweet, with a beautiful brown crown of burnt sugar to crack our spoons through.

 

THE SERVICE: Very professional and attentive, even at the community tables, which can be tricky for a server to navigate when the room is crowded.

 

THE DAMAGES: $80 plus, including four glasses of wine. We probably should just order a bottle. Consider visiting on a Monday, when the restaurant offers 45 wines at 45 percent off, to celebrate its 45-plus years in Syracuse.

 

THE NEXT TIME: I swear I'm going to order something other than the Poached Eggs Meurette. Maybe the in-house smoked salmon? Or the trout prepared Yann's mother's way, with garlic and lemon butter? What menu surprises will spring bring?

 

THE DETAILS: The Scotch 'n' Sirloin is at 3687 Erie Blvd. East, DeWitt. Dinner is served 5 to 9:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 4:30 to 8:30 p.m. Sundays. The bar opens at 4 p.m. daily. For more information, call 315-446-1771 or visit www.scotchnsirloin.com.

 

Dining out in Downtown Syracuse: new restaurants, new names, new locations

Photo courtesy of The 317 (Three One Seven), on Facebook

If you haven’t stepped out and about to dine in downtown Syracuse lately, you will find some new restaurant options -- including an Indian restaurant on Harrison Street and a new occupant at the former P.J. Dorsey's site on Walton Street in Armory Square.

Let's take a look:

• The 317: The restaurant formerly known as Parisa closed this summer and reopened in September as The 317. Chef and co-owner Chance Bear is in the kitchen, creating classic and new American dishes “with a twist,’’ like seared scallops with bacon marmalade and duck ravioli with raspberry demi glace (two recent specials). The 317 is open seven days a week, serving lunch, dinner (Tuesday-Saturday) and Sunday brunch. It’s at 317 Montgomery St. Information: 315-214-4267.

• Indian Tandoor: How about a plate of lamb curry or chicken tikka masala before/after your next Syracuse Crunch game or visit to the Everson Museum? Adding Indian spice, aroma and flavor to Harrison Street is Indian Tandoor, which opened in July.  The menu offers plenty of vegetarian options and you might even pick up a little Hindi while you’re there. Along with daily specials, owner-manager Sharaf Zaidi posts a Hindi “Word of the Day’’ each day to enlighten customers. Indian Tandoor is at 232 Harrison St., Syracuse. Hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Friday and noon to 10 p.m. Saturday. Information: 315-565-4099.

• Small Plates: This restaurant, which originated in Detroit, opened at the former P.J. Dorsey’s spot in Armory Square in September. The owners describe it as “communal-style dining’’ – foods designed to be ordered in multiple courses and shared among family and friends. The menu offers soups, salads, appetizers, brick oven pizzas, five varieties of sliders, desserts and more. Small Plates is open seven days a week for lunch, dinner, late-night bites and Sunday brunch. It's at 116 Walton St., Syracuse. Information: 315-373-0031. 

• The Black Olive: Fear not when you see the lights out at 316 S. Clinton St. The Black Olive has moved to bigger digs around the corner, to the space formerly occupied by Pascale Wine Bar and Restaurant. You’ll find old favorites, like falafel, spanakopita, gyros, souvlaki, rack of lamb, Greek salad and Greek platters designed for sharing, as well as an extensive cocktail list. The restaurant’s address is 250 S. Clinton St., but the entrance is at 204 W. Fayette St. Information: 315-399-5599.

• Clark’s Ale House: The popular pub, which for years anchored one corner of South Clinton and West Jefferson Streets downtown, will make a comeback later this year at 201 S. Salina St., former home of Traditions and, more recently, Wise Guys Comedy Club. Interior renovations of the site look to be well underway. Expect a larger selection of draft beers (32) and a simple menu featuring Clark’s signature sandwich (roast beef) plus a couple soups and salads.

The Flame Pizza, at Flame, Syracuse.

• Flame: Artist Tash Taskale’s eclectic new restaurant featuring ultra thin crust brick oven pizza, soups, salads and small plates, has expanded its hours to 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. A special brunch menu is offered 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Flame is at 713 E. Fayette St., Syracuse. Information: 315-423-5263.

• Otro Cinco: No word yet on this sister restaurant of the popular Alto Cinco, which is scheduled to open at 266 Warren St. If you've heard anything, let me know!