Eat First

The Curd Nerd, Syracuse

Here’s some grate news: The Eastwood neighborhood of Syracuse now has a cheese shop. That cheese shop is The Curd Nerd.

For months, Sarah Starace and her fiance, Matthew Simiele, have been renovating the wedge-shaped storefront at the corner of James Street and Collingwood Avenue into a bright and welcoming space. The walls are painted a buttery yellow and the space is filled with greenery from Found Things Co., a plant shop that has taken root a couple doors down Collingwood. 

One of Sarah’s goals with her shop is to stock as many local cheeses as possible and support local cheesemaking. That makes me happy on so many levels. 

The shop is in the “soft open’’ stage, with a grand opening planned for later in the month. Early offerings include chevre, feta and other goat cheeses from Lively Run Goat Dairy and cheddars and blue cheese from Muranda Cheese Company, both in the Finger Lakes.

Do you like spreadable cheeses? Then Sarah recommends the everything bagel-seasoned Quark cheese from Shults Family Farm in the Mohawk Valley. Quark is a soft farmers cheese that’s perfect for schmearing on crackers, toast and bagels and used as a dip for vegetables. Another soft cheese Sarah recommends is the Harbison from Jasper Hill Creamery in Vermont. It’s an oozy, bloomy-rind cheese that’s wrapped in spruce bark, which gives the cheese an earthy flavor. You might want a baguette to go with this cheese.

Other local/regional cheeses include Jake’s original gouda and Jake’s smoked gouda from Oneida County, Alpine-style cheeses from East Hill Creamery in Perry, and offerings from Old Chatham Creamery, which started out in the Hudson Valley and is now based in Groton. Selections in the case will change regularly, as Sarah figures out what her customers want.

Why cheese? Why Eastwood? And why now?

Sarah is a native of Queens who started out at Binghamton University on a pre-med track thinking she would become a doctor. For fun, she helped to establish the Binghamton University Cheese Club, a group of students who sampled different cheeses every week and spread their love for cheese on campus through activities and events. Sarah ended up getting a degree in cell and molecular biology and told her family and friends she planned to become a cheesemonger. She considers cheese her calling and is working to become a Certified Cheese Professional through the American Cheese Society.

Sarah met Matthew at Binghamton and they moved to Syracuse after graduation (he’s an electrical engineer). She worked at Wegmans for a time and considered working as a farmhand to learn more about the dairy industry. Then the pandemic happened. They bought a house in Eastwood and eventually met Realtor Stephen Skinner, who connected them to their space. A year later, they took down the paper covering the front of the shop and quietly opened for business.     

Sarah sees The Curd Nerd as a specialty grocery store as much as a cheese shop. You’ll find locally sourced bread, yogurt, honey, salad greens, mushrooms, apples, Clean Slate Farm oils and vinegars, salts from Syracuse Salt Company and everything that partners with cheese: crackers, dried fruits, nuts, olives, cured meats and more.

In a nod to the lactose intolerant, the shop sells packs of lactase, an enzyme that aids in the digestion of lactose. I hope I never become lactose intolerant. I love cheese too much.

I left The Curd Nerd with a fat wedge of Muranda Blue from Muranda Cheese Company, a container of feta (my new favorite cheese to have on hand) from Lively Run and a personal cheese box ($6; shown below) curated by Sarah. It contained slices of Shire (a cow’s milk cheese collaboration between Lively Run and Hopshire Farm and Brewery), a wedge of Nancy’s Camembert from Old Chatham, two kinds of crackers, dried apricots, strawberries, HoBe Honey, marcona almonds and toasted corn nuts. It was the perfect lunch – not too big, not too small, just right.

All cheese/charcuterie boxes, boards and trays are made to order. Visit the website, call 315-299-7006 or email [email protected] for more information.

The Curd Nerd is at 2800 James St. Hours (subject to change) are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday to Saturday and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday. Visit their website and social media for more information.

All photos © Margaret McCormick

Food truck roundups in Syracuse

The Syracuse Food Truck Association launched in 2015 with three members: Nick Sanford of Toss & Fire Pizza, Dennis Souva and Cindy Baker of The Chicken Bandit and Pat Orr of PB&J's Lunchbox. In four years, the organization has grown to include nearly 30 mobile food entrepreneurs.

 

In Syracuse, it has been a bit of a rocky road for them. In the past, the city used a lottery system that gave the trucks standing locations on city streets. At one point, expensive licensing and permit fees drove many of the trucks out of the city. Fortunately, Syracuse Common Councilor Michael Greene introduced legislation this year that reduced the cost for food truck operators to set up shop -- and gave them the green light to set up on a first come, first serve basis on certain blocks downtown.

 

The city also dedicated a day to weekly food truck round-ups in Clinton Square. Judging from a visit on a recent Wednesday, the Clinton Square Food Truck Rally is a success -- and a great lunchtime addition to downtown. And Wednesday isn't the only day the trucks roll in. You can enjoy lunch from local food trucks most Fridays at the Everson Museum of Art and have a food truck supper on some Fridays at the Syracuse Inner Harbor, to benefit In My Father's Kitchen.

 

Food trucks contribute to a vibrant local food culture -- and are a fun and affordable way to experience different cuisines. August is upon us. Be sure to check out these seasonal events.

 

Clinton Square Food Truck Rally

The Clinton Square Food Truck Rally continues from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesdays into the fall. Six food trucks are on site each week and the spots rotate among the nearly 30 members of the Syracuse Food Truck Association.

 

On the day I visited, Wolf's Patio Pizza, Cluck N Burger, Cue-Dogs, Skippy's Ice Cream, Byblos Street Grill and the Papa Gallo Taco Truck were present. I was torn between wood-fired pizza and tacos but the tacos won. From a menu of about 10 tacos and burritos, I ordered the Pollo Verde street tacos ($10) from the Papa Gallo truck. These featured seasoned chicken, corn, black bean and red pepper salsa and a cheese blend stuffed inside three warm flour tortillas. Two people could easily share the tacos -- and something else from another truck.

 

Food Truck Fridays at the Everson Museum

There are just a few Fridays left to catch this event, held 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. most Fridays on the plaza at the Everson Museum of Art, 401 Harrison St., Syracuse.

 

Four food trucks are on site each week, offering everything from barbecue to Middle Eastern food to waffles and ice cream. Also on hand is the Syracuse Farm Fresh Mobile Market, which brings fresh produce at reasonable prices to accessible locations around Syracuse. The mobile market is a project of the Southside Interfaith Community Development Corporation.

 

The final Food Truck Fridays of the season are scheduled for August 3, 10, 24 and 31. Click here to see what trucks will be there.

 

Food Truck Friday Roundup at the Syracuse Inner Harbor

Two of these popular food truck gatherings remain: August 16 and September 20. Hours are 5 to 8 p.m. Proceeds  benefit In My Father's Kitchen, a non-profit that offers assistance to the homeless and refugee community through street outreach. Diners are encouraged to round up their tab to the nearest dollar, five dollars, 10 dollars, etc., and support a great cause. Parking is available in the Aloft lot on West Kirkpatrick Street, across from the Inner Harbor location.

 

At the first event of the season, we finally had the opportunity to sample specialties from two food trucks we've been wanting to try: Bold Coast Lobster Co. and Conundrum (foods with a cone under them). The New England style clam chowder from Bold Coast ($6 for a cup) was full of flavor and clams and the Connecticut-style lobster roll ($18) was served with drawn butter only (no mayonnaise), on a toasted New England-style roll. Lobster and butter -- what's not to love? The roll was absolutely delicious.

 

From a menu of about six items at Conundrum, we decided on the Ginger Pig Cone ($12; seasoned shredded pork, cooked in coconut milk, with ginger, garlic, lemon, basil and honey and served with a slaw of red cabbage. All of the above ingredients were stuffed in a waffle-style cone. I feared it would collapse -- so we turned it on its side on a plate and ate it with fork and knife. The cone was a somewhat sloppy symphony of flavors.

 

 

 

To find out where local food trucks are, go to Street Food Finder or download the Street Food Finder app.

 

All photos by Margaret McCormick unless otherwise noted

Syracuse-area farmers markets

Opening day haul, Downtown Syracuse Farmers Market

Visiting a local farmers market should be part of everyone's weekly routine this time of year. Why go to a grocery store stocked with produce from thousands of miles away when you can go to a market and get purchase fresh produce, in season, sometimes picked just hours earlier? You'll also find eggs, meats, cheeses, yogurt, honey, maple products, plants, baked goods and so much more.

 

Garlic scapes, Haas Farms, Bayberry Plaza Farmers Market

 

Farmers have weathered a wild rollercoaster ride this spring. It's important for us to support them. At the Bayberry Plaza Farmers Market this week, Dale Haas, of Haas Farms, Red Creek, said he missed the opening of the Downtown Syracuse Farmers Market earlier this month because the cool, wet weather has caused delays in planting and growing. On Wednesday, he had garlic scapes, sugar snap peas, black walnuts and other items. He said raspberries are looking good and should be ready in a couple weeks.

 

Haas also offered suggestions on what to do with garlic scapes. They'll keep for a couple weeks in the refrigerator, he said, so a big, tangled bunch, priced at $2, is a good deal. He also suggested chopping them and sautéing them with other vegetables, like sugar snap peas. One of the best things about going to a farmers market is being able to talk to the people who grow our food. 

 

For best selection, go to the market early. Bring reusable shopping bags and an open mind. Try something you've never tried before! 

 

Following is a short list of Syracuse-area markets. If I'm missing something, let me know in the comments.

 

Central New York Regional Market: 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday, year-round; 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday (through mid-November), 2100 Park St., Syracuse.

Greater Baldwinsville Community Farmers Market: 3 to 7 p.m. Tuesday (through September 10), at Baldwin Canal Square on Denio Street, behind the B'ville Diner.

 

Downtown Syracuse Farmers Market: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday (through October 8) at Clinton Square. 

 

Bayberry Plaza Farmers Market: 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesday (through Oct. 30) at the shopping plaza on Route 57.

 

Syracuse Eastside Neighborhood Farmers Market: 2 to 6 p.m. Wednesday at Westcott Community Center, 826 Euclid Ave., Syracuse. 

 

Fayetteville Farmers Market: Noon to 6 p.m. Thursday (through Oct. 24) in the parking lot at Towne Center at Fayetteville (near Bonefish Grill). NO MARKET JULY 4.

 

Skaneateles Farmers Market: 3:30 to 6:30 p.m. Thursday (through Oct. 24) and 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday (through Oct. 19) in the Austin Park Pavilion parking lot, Jordan Street. 

Cazenovia Farmers Market: 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday at Memorial Park, on Albany Street (Route 20).

 

One of the best meals I NEVER made!

When I came home on shopping day with two small pork tenderloins, each weighing about a pound, my "other" wondered A) WHAT did I plan to do with so much meat and b) HOW did I plan to cook it? Good questions, both. I thought: Well, it's getting warmer out, and these would make a quick meal on the grill. They'll also give us leftovers, which we can enjoy "as is'' or in something different, like fajitas or tacos. At our house, Robert is the go-to person for cooking meats, seafood and other things that require grilling, high oven temperatures and hot pans. He's also the go-to person for more impromptu fare, like throwing together pasta primavera using fresh vegetables we have on hand. I'm more the go-to person for cakes, cookies, biscotti, muffins and other goodies that are put in the oven and baked at your basic 350 degrees. So here is what Robert did with the tenderloins: • Remove from package and blot dry with paper towels. • Rub with oil and season liberally with Oncenter Chef Jerry Bolton's gourmet seasoning blend. Chef Jerry and his staff cook so many meals for so many diners that consistency in seasoning is key. His house blend is a nice combination of salt, pepper, garlic, onion, paprika and other spices, and works well on meat, poultry, fish, seafood and vegetables. • Let the seasoned meat "marinate'' in the refrigerator for about 6 hours. • Sear the tenderloins on a hot grill then transfer them to a casserole dish, cover them with sliced potatoes and onions that have been flash-cooked in a cast iron pan on the stove and remove to a 350 degree oven for about 30 minutes. My contribution: A salad of spring greens, red grapes and toasted walnuts, tossed with strawberry-blueberry-balsamic vinaigrette dressing.
The pork, potato and onion melange was delicious, and I'm adding this dinner it to the list of best meals I never made. Thank you, Robert!

Eatin' good in the neighborhood: a week of dinners

A favorite main-dish salad. See Friday, below.

Our cooking styles are different, but Robert and I both like to cook and eat.

We like to try new things and experiment with new ingredients and techniques. We watch and learn things from each other. I don't think I knew what the word "brown'' really meant until watching Robert in action, cooking a piece of meat on all sides until it was the shade of a brown paper bag. We like to have family and friends over for dinner, do quantity cooking on weekends and enjoy leftovers during the week -- dinner made easy. And while we have favorite foods that we could eat all the time, we like to change things up and keep things interesting. We eat really well and feel blessed we are able to do so. On a night when we're having what we consider to be an especially delicious dinner, we have an expression: "Eatin' good in the neighborhood.'' Sure, there are nights when we eat grilled cheese sandwiches or make "leftover melange'' out of odds-and-ends in the fridge. But last week offered many good examples of "eatin' good.''

The week of good eatin' started on Saturday, when Frank and Marcos came over for Chicken Curry with Cashews, served with basmati rice and seared green beans with garlic. The photo shows Robert's hand-lettered menu slate, a Christmas gift I found for him at Metro Home Style. Sunday: Family dinner for my nephew Joe's birthday, at Rico's, in East Syracuse (thank you, Annie!). See Tuesday.
Monday: Leftover Mushroom Ragu on pasta, with a sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese. The recipe is from the January issue of Vegetarian Times magazine (thank you, Diane!).
Tuesday: Leftover Chicken Curry with Cashews and more basmati. The recipe, found on Epicurious.com, is one of those that's even better the second time around.
Wednesday: Leftover lasagna from Rico's and a short pour of red wine. If you think this is big, you should have seen the original slab of it. Very generous portions at Rico's!
Thursday: There's still two pieces of Chicken Curry with Cashews. And plenty of its punchy sauce. I'm not tired of it yet. Are you?
Friday: For me: Romaine salad with orange segments, dried cranberries and toasted almonds, tumbled with homemade ginger-sesame-soy dressing. The salad is topped with chicken that has been marinated in Wegmans "Tangy'' marinade, and baked-broiled until brown.
For Robert: Fried clams and onion rings from the Fish Cove at Shop City, Teall Avenue and Grant Boulevard, reheated in the oven. A man's gotta have fried fish once in a while.
Saturday: Black Bean Burritos, made by Robert. He starts with a can of black beans, to which he adds cayenne, garlic powder, green chiles, cumin and cilantro.
The beans are spooned into flour tortillas, topped with diced tomatoes, chiles and shredded cheese and rolled up.

They're baked for about 30 minutes, then topped with salsa, sour cream (optional) and more cilantro.
Salad as side dish: The Friday salad, minus chicken.

Notes: Most of our main courses are served with something green on the side, which this time of year could be something like steamed broccoli, kale, spinach or chard, or a green salad. Look for a post soon on winter salads.
On weekends, we indulge in dessert. A favorite lately is a sundae made with vanilla frozen yogurt, homemade fudge sauce and a sprinkling of toasted almonds. It starts by pouring a tablespoon of Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur) in the bottom of the dessert dishes. Like I said: Eatin' good in the neighborhood.