Eat First

In Syracuse (and DeWitt): Street food with gourmet flair

Food trucks are everywhere in cities like New York, serving up everything from pretzels to pad Thai. In Syracuse, they aren’t as commonplace.

So a shiny new red truck, parked on the West Side of Syracuse or along Widewaters Parkway in DeWitt, really stands out.

So does the food. It’s definitely more high-end than the usual hotdogs and burgers, though one or both of those are offered most days.

Welcome to Street Eats, a mobile restaurant owned and operated by chef Steve LeClair, a seasoned pro who has worked at area restaurants for more than 20 years, including Antonio’s, Grimaldi’s Chop House and Francesca’s Cucina.

He opened the food truck, according to the Street Eats page at Yelp.com, so he could offer food with culinary flair at reasonable prices and better connect with his customers.

It’s working, so far. Even in a steady rain on a recent weekday, lunchtime diners drove up to or walked to LeClair’s food truck, previously set up outside Pulse, a fitness studio on West Fayette Street. It has now moved to a parking lot at The Gear Factory, at the corner of West Fayette and Geddes Streets.

LeClair offers about six weekly specials ($7 to $9), like Adobo Chicken Tacos (Adobo braised chicken, shredded and served on grilled flour tortillas with salsa fresca, Monterey Jack cheese and smoky chipotle lemon crema). Don’t eat meat? You can substitute portabello mushrooms for the chicken.

I ordered the El Loco sandwich ($8), a sloppy but delicious heap of Mojo braised pulled pork shoulder, piled on a grilled roll and topped with a tasty, crunchy and slightly sweet jicama-Bosc pear slaw. I ate the loaded sandwich with plastic knife and fork, out of the rain, in my car. As it was Friday, LeClair was doing brisk business with his seafood offerings: a clam boat and fried haddock.

On the side, LeClair offers hand-cut French fries with his special seasoning, red potato salad and Mexican black bean and yellow rice salad ($2).

For dessert, you’ll find cupcakes ($2.50), usually one or two flavors a day. Delicious sounding flavors like Limoncello, Red Velvet with Cream Cheese Icing and Chocolate with Peanut Butter Frosting.

The Street Eats truck can be found at two locations a couple times a week: at the corner of West Fayette and Geddes Streets (Gear Factory parking lot) and at 5786 Widewaters Parkway, in DeWitt. Hours at both locations are 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. For more information, call 315-729-6468.

For daily menus, calendar and updates: Log on and “like” the Street Eats Facebook page.

 

Benefit Sunday for Circa's Alicyn Hart: Sometimes, life hits you in the head

When Alicyn Hart started seeing what looked like "flashing lights,'' she knew something was wrong.

A friend who's also an opthalmologist told her to go to the emergency room. Doctors ordered tests, and tests revealed she had a brain tumor. She underwent surgery at Crouse Hospital in March, and surgeons removed a large, benign brain tumor.

"I feel good,'' says Alicyn, chef and owner of  Circa, a restaurant (and food market) in Cazenovia spotlighting seasonal menus that change weekly and emphasize locally sourced produce, meats, cheeses and other ingredients. "I hate to be anti-dramatic,'' she adds with a laugh. "It's been six weeks now. ... If you're gonna have a brain tumor, the tumor I had, I guess, is one of the better ones to have.''

Through it all, Alicyn has remained in high spirits and retained her signature sense of humor. The surgery itself and the medication she is taking have sapped some of her energy ("I get tired," she says) but she is on the rebound. She's back to work at Circa three days a week and hopes to return full-time soon.

Alicyn is grateful to Circa assistant chef Paul Cox and her staff, who rallied to keep Circa running  in her absence, and to the Cazenovia community for its concern and support.

 

To celebrate her recovery and to lessen the load of her medical bills, the community is holding a “Tumor-Free, But Still A Freaking Headcase!”  bash for Alicyn on Sunday at the Nelson Odeon, 4035 Nelson Road, Cazenovia. The public is invited to attend. Donations are encouraged, and will be collected at the door.

The event will be held from 1 to 5 p.m. and will feature food prepared by Circa’s  Paul Cox using products from Meadowood Farm, Cazenovia and other local growers. Brewery Ommegang, Empire Brewing Co., Cafe Kubal and others will provide beer, wine, soft drinks and coffee.

Taking the stage will be John Kelsey, Tumbleweed Gumbo, Anthony Greacen, and other artists.

For more information, call Neil Miller at 315-560-1580 or email [email protected].

Home for the holidays: Two CNY book signings for Chef Anne Burrell

Celebrity chef Anne Burrell, host of Food Network’s “Secrets of a Restaurant Chef’’ and “Worst Cooks in America,’’ will be in her native Central New York this week to sign copies of her new book, “Cook Like a Rock Star.’’

First stop is the DeWitt Wegmans, on East Genesee Street, for a book signing at 6 p.m. Wednesday, Dec. 21.

On Thursday, she'll be at a place close to her heart, Flowers on Main Street in Cazenovia, for a second book signing (6 to 7:30 p.m.). The shop is owned by Anne’s mother, Marlene Burrell.

The Cazenovia book signing will be followed by a “meet and greet’’ reception with the chef and author at Circa, a restaurant and local food market at 76 Albany St.

Circa chef-owner Alicyn Hart and chef Burrell will serve Prosecco cocktails and appetizers and small plates from “Cook Like a Rock Star.’’

“The book is dedicated to her mother,’’ says Hart, a friend of Anne Burrell and her family. “So it’s a special signing, I would say.’’

Admission to the reception is $40 per person, with 10 percent of proceeds to benefit CazCares, a food pantry and clothing closet serving low-income residents of Cazenovia and Madison County. For more information on the book signing and reception, call Circa at 315-655-8768.

Burrell will also participate in the Iron Fork Syracuse fundraiser for the Rescue Mission on Jan. 29, 2012. For more information on that event, click here.

CNY loses a great chef: RIP, Brian Shore

I will remember Brian Shore for his Chocolate Tower, a dessert he made famous at the Arad Evans Inn, in Fayetteville: Hand-made from with dark chocolate, filled with chocolate mousse, garnished with spun sugar… What a grand, over-the-top, finale for a meal!

I will also remember Brian for one of his signature salads: spring greens, red grapes and candied walnuts, tossed with balsamic vinaigrette and sprinkled with Gorgonzola cheese. We make a copycat version often, but it somehow lacks the flair that came to Brian so naturally.

Brian was found dead at his home Dec. 1, the result of a self-inflicted gunshot wound, Syracuse police said. He was 50.

His loss is a huge one for the culinary community in Central New York: purveyors, chefs, students and diners.

Brian worked as a chef at several of Central New York’s finest restaurants, including the Brewster Inn in Cazenovia and Sherwood Inn in Skaneateles, and most notably at the Arad Evans Inn. He worked there for three years, before turning his sights south of Syracuse and opening his own restaurant, Kettle Lakes, in Tully, in 1999.

Brian poured his heart and soul into Kettle Lakes for more than six years, wowing diners with his seafood creations, nightly specials and locally sourced and seasonally inspired fare like free-range chicken and butternut squash bisque topped with tiny gingerbread man croutons.

Despite glowing reviews the restaurant struggled financially, and it was with a heavy heart that Shore closed it in early 2006, returning, eventually, to the Arad Evans. When I interviewed him for a story for The Good Life Central New York Magazine that spring, he nearly wept as he discussed his decision to close the restaurant.

Our paths crossed several times over the years, when I was food editor at The Post-Standard. No matter how busy he was, he never said no to requests for interviews, photos and recipes. For one story, a feature on “Salt City chefs” and their salt preferences, Brian arrived at the newspaper dragging a wagon loaded with Diamond Crystal kosher salt, coarse-grain salts and fancy fleur de sel (sea salts in a range of colors) from France.

I immediately converted to kosher salt, exclusively, in food and on food. With a ringing endorsement like that, wouldn’t you?

Dessert sampler plate by Chef Brian Shore; photos courtesy of his Facebook page

Despite the challenges of running a restaurant, Brian devoted considerable time and energy to the Syracuse chapter of the American Culinary Federation and its premier event, the Great Chefs Dinner, an annual fundraiser/gala to benefit the American Red Cross.

His passion for food and commitment to local produce and ingredients was contagious. In the bustling kitchen at Skaneateles Country Club, a few hours before the start of the 2004 edition of the Great Chefs Dinner, he took a few minutes to sing the praises of the owner/growers of Fresh Herbs of Fabius – and encourage his fellow chefs to call on them, as well.

The last time I saw Brian was in April, at Savor Syracuse, a food-tasting event to benefit the Food Bank of Central New York.

He introduced his fiancee, Katie, and spoke excitedly of the possibility of running the kitchen at The Krebs, a landmark restaurant in Skaneateles purchased by Skaneateles resident Adam Weitsman, with plans to renovate and donate restaurant proceeds to charity.

A few months later, he was hired as executive chef at the LaFayette Country Club – a project that never got off the ground.

Brian has been described as a talented and troubled soul. I can only speak for his talents and creativity and his deep appreciation for and connection to food – from those who grow it, to those who work magic with it in restaurant kitchens to those who ultimately eat it.

If there is a heaven, it surely must have an herb garden and fully-stocked kitchen. And someone is sitting down to an amazing meal prepared by Brian, using what’s seasonal, local and at hand.

RIP.

 

EatingDelicious at Zabroso (thanks LivingSocial!)

Sometimes we tire of the frequent e-blasts in our inbox from LivingSocial and Groupon. But we don’t want to miss out on a good thing (Hello! tasty restaurant deals) and act fast when we see a discount on a restaurant we’re already fans of or want to try.

When a half-off food deal at Zabroso arrived one morning (pay $30 for $60 worth of food), we clicked “buy now’’ so quickly the keyboard was smoking.

Zabroso – derived from the Spanish word sabroso, meaning delicious – is one of the most original and creative restaurants in Central New York. Its calling card is authentic Spanish and Latin American cuisine, prepared with care and flair by chef-owner Ruben Lopez, a native of Puerto Rico and graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. 

We decided to put our Zabroso voucher towards a special dinner for Robert’s birthday and sample a smorgasbord of tapas -- small plates of anything and everything – olives, cured meats, seafood, paella, croquettes, you name it -- as a meal. 

We sipped glasses of red wine and fruity housemade sangria, toasted life and birthdays, mulled our options and shared a succession of plates and bites. Among the highlights: 

Papas Bravas: More than a month after our dinner, the memory of Chef Ruben’s crispy potatoes and aioli (a savory, garlicky mayonnaise) makes Robert smile and declare: “The best potatoes…I’ve had… in my entire LIFE!’’

Roasted beet salad: Warm goat cheese, roasted beets and almonds, crowned with spring greens. Can you say wonderful combination of flavors and textures. Did not want to share!

Grilled asparagus with Serrano ham and truffle oil: Another feast for the eyes and taste buds.

Meat and seafood, in one bowl: Chorizo (a chili and garlic flavored sausage) and clams. The dish was slightly sweet, thanks to the clams, and slightly spicy, thanks to the sausage, with broth to mop up with a crusty roll.

Chef Ruben's flan (traditional Spanish custard with creme caramel) is, in a word, outstanding. And Robert was delighted with his Latin-flavored birthday cake: Coconut and Spiced Rum Tres Leches (meaning "three milks''), a moist, dense sponge cake served with grilled pineapple salsa. Hold the candles.

Tapas prices at Zabroso range from $4 to $12 per plate. We shared six, in all, not including dessert. Our waitress said most diners order three to five apiece for passing and sharing with the table.

Our LivingSocial voucher covered a portion of this special dinner. After the discount was applied, our tab came to $37, plus $20 tip. Was it worth it? Absolutely. The Zabroso dining experience lives up to its name: Delicious.

Next time, we’ll skip the small plates in favor of a big, fat pan of one of Chef Ruben’s signature paellas. And we’ll be keeping an eye out for more daily dining deals!

Zabroso is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday and for lunch on Fridays. Brunch is also served Sundays, depending on the season. The restaurant is in the historic Oneida Community Mansion House, 170 Kenwood Ave., Oneida (Sherrill). Check the website for more information or call 315-363-3360.

 

Bittersweet Wine and Dessert Bar: Compliments to the pastry chef

    Bittersweet's popular Death By Chocolate Cake. Photo courtesy of Bittersweet Wine and Dessert Bar.

What a nice surprise to arrive at Bittersweet on a Tuesday night and find a line snaking out the door.

Was everyone, like us, taking advantage of their soon-to-expire dollars-off-dessert deal (from LivingSocial)? Was everyone suddenly in a mindset of “Life is short… Eat dessert first?’’

A full house on a Tuesday night – a slower night in the restaurant business -- speaks volumes about the place. Bittersweet, with its menu of mainly desserts, wine and coffees, plus a short list of savory fare, clearly fills a void in downtown Syracuse.

THE VIBE: Warm, compact and inviting, with cream- and chocolate-colored walls and pink accents. The place is small – maybe six tables for two and four along one wall, and a couple tables for larger parties near the door and toward the back. The bar has tall, comfortable padded stools and room for about a dozen more people looking to satisfy their sweet tooth.

The place was full of women, including a couple tables with groups that looked to be celebrating a birthday and upcoming wedding with sparkling wine, shared platters of cheese and fruit and plenty of chocolate, including fondue and slabs of Death by Chocolate Cake that looked big enough for three people to sink forks into.

LIQUID ASSETS: A few beers by the bottle plus a list of about 40 wines, available by the bottle or glass (two pour sizes, 2 ounce and 4 ounce). Coffee is also available, and the espresso machine was getting a good workout.

THE MENU: More than a dozen desserts, all made by pastry chef Lucia Barbieri, sister of owner Patrizia Barbieri, are available. The temptations include cakes, cream puffs, tiramisu, Belgian waffles dressed with ice cream and chocolate sauce, and classics like sundaes and strawberry shortcake.

DECISIONS, DECISIONS: After much mulling of the wine and dessert menus, we settled on a glass of Montevina white Zinfandel (California) for me (my first choice, a French rose, was not available) and a glass of Acrobat by King Estate Pinot Noir (Oregon) for Robert. I ordered the Whipped and Cream Puffs (something I’m not likely to bake at home) but soon learned they were not available that evening.

Back to the drawing board: Make that Carrot Cake and Creme Brulee.

Bittersweet's Carrot Cake (top) and Creme Brulee.

The carrot cake ($6.50), an over-sized, multi-layer slice topped with cream cheese icing, was moist with a wonderful texture, hinting of cinnamon and nutmeg and flecked with a few nuts. The crème brulee ($7.75) had a nicely browned and crackly sugar top, hiding smooth, rich custard underneath. In case you’ve never had crème brulee, this is a good place to try it. The combination of crackly burnt sugar and creamy custard is one of life’s pleasures.

WHAT’S SOMEONE WHO DOESN’T WANT DESSERT GOING TO FIND? Soups, salads, and sandwiches, plus cheese platters for sharing – not just desserts.

THE DAMAGES: $35 plus change, for two desserts, one beer, three glasses of wine, tax and tip.

WOULD WE GO BACK: Absolutely. We’ll return for the Whipped and Creamed Puffs that weren’t available, or maybe for a shared slice of Strawberry Love, Bittersweet’s version of strawberry shortcake. Fresh local berries will be in season in a few short weeks, after all (hint, hint!).

VITALS: Bittersweet is at 121 W. Fayette St., in downtown Syracuse.  The restaurant is open 11:30 a.m. to midnight Monday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday (closed Sunday). Information: 315-474-9463.

 

The Pride of New York Harvest Festival

You learn something new every day, and Saturday was no exception.

Thanks to chef Paul Midgley and his cooking demo at the Pride of New York Harvest Festival at the state fairgrounds in Geddes, I learned I like cabbage, a vegetable I have loathed my entire lifetime.

Chef Paul's take on cabbage this time of year is to braise it slowly in butter until it is wilted and caramelized, which renders it sweet -- and not at all stinky. He pairs it on a plate with pumpkin risotto and tops it with seared scallops dusted with cabbage seeds.

Pumpkin Risotto with Caramelized Cabbage and Seared Scallops.

Chef Paul Midgley samples his creation in the Wegmans kitchen of the Art and Home Center.

Chef Paul operated two Pride of New York restaurants at this year's edition of the New York State Fair and plans to make use of as much locally grown produce, locally raised meats and other local ingredients at Cuento, a "gastro pub'' he is on track to open in Manlius before year's end.

Besides the cabbage revelation, another surprise at the chef's cooking demo was his pairing of a red wine, a Cabernet Franc from Hosmer Winery on Cayuga Lake, with his seafood dish.

The Harvest Fest, on the whole, was all about surprises. The event marked the first time the state Department of Agriculture and Markets held the event in Central New York. About 45 food producers from across the state shared space with about 45 wineries, most of them from the Finger Lakes region, and a handful of regional breweries.

By the time I left in the early afternoon to visit the Junior League's annual Holiday Shoppes shopping extravaganza at the Center of Progress building, a line of people eager to gain access, secure their wrist bands and complimentary wine glasses and begin sipping and tasting  snaked outside the Horticulture Building.

Here's a taste of some of the vendors and what they had to offer:

Split peas as a snack food, from Womb of Nature, a company in Baldwin.

Sauces, dressings and marinades in abundance, including Pa's Pistols Sweet Hickory Sauce, made in Salem. Use it for basting and barbecuing, or as a condiment.

At Keuka Lake Coffee Roasters, coffee beans show up in sauces and marinades...

 

... and in a full line of Java-Gourmet Rubs.

Soup and chili mixes from Healthy Sisters' Soup and Bean Works, in Rochester, are delicious and support a worthy cause: a program that helps women who have never worked before move from dependence to independence.

The New York Beef Industry Council, based in Westmoreland, served samples of Veal Chili ...

... and presented the chili it in a very elegant way.

Cheese was all over the place, from River Rat Cheeses, made in the Thousand Islands...

... to McCadam Empire Pepper Jack, also made in the North Country...

...to a tasty bite of salad topped with goat cheese, from Side Hill Acres, in Candor.

 

Pleasing to the palate and a refreshing change from wine were the tart cherry and Concord grape juices served by Growers' Co-operative Grape Juice Co., in Western New York.

Those craving sweet treats had plenty of choices, from DipStix pretzel barks and chocolate-dipped pretzels, made in Cazenovia. ...

... to the no-bake cheesecake mixes in a multitude of flavors from DeeDee Desserts.

For me, the best bites of the event were the wine ice creams -- Red Raspberry Chardonnay and Chocolate Cabernet -- made by Mercer's Dairy, of Boonville. This ice cream contains 5 percent alcohol, so it's not to be served as kiddie cones.

You might not think ice cream and alcohol don't go together, but trust me, the two make a delicious match. The wine flavor is subtle, but sublime.

Maybe Chef Paul can be persuaded to have Mercer's wine ice cream on the dessert menu at his new restaurant when it opens.