Eat First

Not quite bread, not quite rolls: Popovers

Bread: It's the staff of life. But I wanted something a little out of the ordinary to go with our Roasted Squash Soup.

Organic multi-grain baguette? Nope. Cornbread? Not the right partner. Homemade yeast bread? That would be lovely, but not on a weeknight. Popovers? Yesssss! Into the Recipe Vault we go.

There’s something old-fashioned and comforting about popovers.

In the realm of breads, popovers are peculiar: brown and crisp on the outside, moist and eggy on the inside. Think of them as hollow, free-form rolls. As their name suggests, they "pop over'' the pan they're baked in and tend not to stand upright without toppling over.

Anyone who has dined at the Lincklaen House in Cazenovia has feasted on their signature popovers, baked fresh and served warm, with honey butter on the side.

My Aunt Dorothy (Sarvay), who lives in Cortland and has made many pans of popovers in her life, gave me her recipe some years back. The typewritten paper stapled to a recipe card is a treasure in itself, with its instructions to start with a COLD OVEN and DON'T PEEK for the duration of baking, no matter how tempted you might be to open the oven door. Somewhere along the line, at our house, no doubt, the recipe card came into contact with a splash of coffee or tea, from the looks of it.

The recipe calls for four simple ingredients -- flour, eggs, milk and salt. No special gear is required, just a muffin tin or custard cups.

The finished product is impressive. Give popovers a try when you're looking to serve something special, without a major time investment.

NO-BEAT POPOVERS 

(Makes 6 large popovers)

Recipe from Dorothy Sarvay

2 eggs (room temperature)

1 cup whole milk (room temperature)

1 cup sifted flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

Generously grease or butter a muffin tin (six compartments).

Break eggs into bowl and add milk. Blend lightly. Add flour and salt, sifted together, and stir to combine. Batter will be thin and have lumps. Spoon batter into six muffin cups. They should be three-quarters full.

THE SECRET -- start with a COLD OVEN. Set oven to 450 degrees. Bake for about 30 minutes.

Popovers will be brown on the outside and will collapse slightly when removed from the oven. Serve with butter. Leftovers (if there are any) can be reheated in a low oven until hot. Enjoy for breakfast with honey butter or butter and jam.

Dining out in Downtown Syracuse: new restaurants, new names, new locations

Photo courtesy of The 317 (Three One Seven), on Facebook

If you haven’t stepped out and about to dine in downtown Syracuse lately, you will find some new restaurant options -- including an Indian restaurant on Harrison Street and a new occupant at the former P.J. Dorsey's site on Walton Street in Armory Square.

Let's take a look:

• The 317: The restaurant formerly known as Parisa closed this summer and reopened in September as The 317. Chef and co-owner Chance Bear is in the kitchen, creating classic and new American dishes “with a twist,’’ like seared scallops with bacon marmalade and duck ravioli with raspberry demi glace (two recent specials). The 317 is open seven days a week, serving lunch, dinner (Tuesday-Saturday) and Sunday brunch. It’s at 317 Montgomery St. Information: 315-214-4267.

• Indian Tandoor: How about a plate of lamb curry or chicken tikka masala before/after your next Syracuse Crunch game or visit to the Everson Museum? Adding Indian spice, aroma and flavor to Harrison Street is Indian Tandoor, which opened in July.  The menu offers plenty of vegetarian options and you might even pick up a little Hindi while you’re there. Along with daily specials, owner-manager Sharaf Zaidi posts a Hindi “Word of the Day’’ each day to enlighten customers. Indian Tandoor is at 232 Harrison St., Syracuse. Hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Friday and noon to 10 p.m. Saturday. Information: 315-565-4099.

• Small Plates: This restaurant, which originated in Detroit, opened at the former P.J. Dorsey’s spot in Armory Square in September. The owners describe it as “communal-style dining’’ – foods designed to be ordered in multiple courses and shared among family and friends. The menu offers soups, salads, appetizers, brick oven pizzas, five varieties of sliders, desserts and more. Small Plates is open seven days a week for lunch, dinner, late-night bites and Sunday brunch. It's at 116 Walton St., Syracuse. Information: 315-373-0031. 

• The Black Olive: Fear not when you see the lights out at 316 S. Clinton St. The Black Olive has moved to bigger digs around the corner, to the space formerly occupied by Pascale Wine Bar and Restaurant. You’ll find old favorites, like falafel, spanakopita, gyros, souvlaki, rack of lamb, Greek salad and Greek platters designed for sharing, as well as an extensive cocktail list. The restaurant’s address is 250 S. Clinton St., but the entrance is at 204 W. Fayette St. Information: 315-399-5599.

• Clark’s Ale House: The popular pub, which for years anchored one corner of South Clinton and West Jefferson Streets downtown, will make a comeback later this year at 201 S. Salina St., former home of Traditions and, more recently, Wise Guys Comedy Club. Interior renovations of the site look to be well underway. Expect a larger selection of draft beers (32) and a simple menu featuring Clark’s signature sandwich (roast beef) plus a couple soups and salads.

The Flame Pizza, at Flame, Syracuse.

• Flame: Artist Tash Taskale’s eclectic new restaurant featuring ultra thin crust brick oven pizza, soups, salads and small plates, has expanded its hours to 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. A special brunch menu is offered 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Flame is at 713 E. Fayette St., Syracuse. Information: 315-423-5263.

• Otro Cinco: No word yet on this sister restaurant of the popular Alto Cinco, which is scheduled to open at 266 Warren St. If you've heard anything, let me know!

Eremita Winery: Worship at the altar of Finger Lakes wine

Here is the church. Here is the steeple. Open the doors and see all the…

WINE!

Eremita Winery is located in the former Reformed and (later) Presbyterian Church, which stood vacant for years, in the village of Lodi, Seneca County (Seneca Lake East). The church dates to the 1870’s.

Owner Josh Parker, a native of the Utica area who previously worked as a construction project manager in Florida, purchased the building in 2010 after seeing it advertised online.

He is restoring and repurposing the building in increments, putting reclaimed materials and his own design and construction skills to use. He lives there, as well, and his dog, Matouk, greets visitors.

If Parker were to say his winery is one of the most unique in the Finger Lakes, he would be justified. I can’t think of another winery in a former church, with light streaming in through stained glass windows. The church’s original wood floors gleam.

Stand at the tasting bar and admire the colorful collection of wine bottles housed in the space that once held the church’s organ pipes. The space is beautiful and has a great vibe.

Parker makes and cellars Riesling, unoaked Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, a blush wine called Goddess and others on the premises, using grapes from Wagner Vineyards and other growers.

It’s small in terms of staff and volume – about 1,500 cases a year. Stop in Eremita for a tasting and the chances are good you will find Parker working solo, pouring wine, answering questions and making and closing sales.

Eremita welcomes groups, but it’s a good idea to call ahead.

Speaking of small Finger Lakes wineries: About five miles south of Eremita, and off the beaten path (Route 414), is Silver Thread Vineyard. The vineyard produces small quantities of premium vinifera wines, including Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer that have gained notice well outside the Finger Lakes. The winery is rated among the top six Finger Lakes wine producers in the latest Robert Parker Wine Guide.

Silver Thread is a hidden gem, offering a secluded setting, gorgeous views of Seneca Lake and a small tasting room built into a hill, where co-owner Shannon Brock pours samples. Buses and recreational vehicles aren’t allowed on the gravel road that leads to the winery. Groups of eight or more must call in advance to make arrangements to visit.

There are advantages to visiting a small winery. When the owner pours, you learn things. Such as: Veraison – that’s the term used to describe the point in the growing season when grapes soften and change color. And that Gewurztraminer is a pink grape that yields a straw-colored wine.

Eremita Winery is at 2155 Church St., Lodi. Hours are 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, noon to 5 p.m. on Sunday and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday. For information, call 607-474-5002. A website is under construction. Click here to visit Eremita on Facebook.

Silver Thread Vineyard is at 1401 Caywood Road, Lodi (about a mile off Route 414). The tasting room is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Monday (through November). For information, call 607-582-6116 or visit the website.