Eat First

CNY chefs square off in EnvIRONmental Chef Cook-Off at Baltimore Woods

Chef Stephen Landon at last year's EnvIRONmental Chef Cook-Off at Baltimore Woods

Take four local chefs. Give them a surprise local ingredient to create entrees around, add the bounty of the local harvest and an array of locally produced meats, cheeses, wines and other ingredients donated by the producers – and what have you got?

The EnvIRONmental Chef Homegrown Cook-Off, a delicious fundraiser for Baltimore Woods, Marcellus.

The third edition of the popular event takes place Sunday, September 8. It features returning chef-champs Chris Kuhns of Phoebe's and Joelle Mollinger of Joelle's French Bistro vs. chef Chance Bear of Parisa (and the upcoming The 317) and Luke Houghton of Pure Catering and Events.

The pressure! The chefs have 90 minutes to prepare entrees that use a mystery local ingredient announced at the event. The dessert competition features Emily and Mike Woloszyn of Lune Chocolat (last year’s winners) vs. Jennifer Walls and Natalie Hansen of Sweet Praxis and Allyson Landon of The Sherwood Inn.

For guests, the only “challenge” is to eat, drink, mix and mingle and enjoy the scenery of Baltimore Woods. Chef Abigail Henson of LoFo will create cocktails and mocktails. Chef Stephen Landon of Vernak Farms will prepare appetizers and sides from potatoes donated by Cornell University.  And chef Luke Szabo of the Mandana Inn will use produce from Horsford Farms in a variety of appetizers.

 Those who purchase tickets at the patron level ($100) can enter a lottery to work alongside one of the chefs as their sous chef. All of the food prepared for the competition will be available for tasting, and guests determine the winners by vote.

 “The draw for many is a chance to come see their favorite local chefs in action and to support the mission of Baltimore Woods,’’ says Mary Kate Hartnett, executive director of Baltimore Woods. “We also find that many folks in the community who like to support locally owned and operated restaurants, businesses and farms attend for this reason -- it's truly a local event.’’

Emcees for the event are interior designer and TV personality Thom Filicia (“Queer Eye for the Straight Guy’’) and NewsChannel9 (WSYR-TV) anchor Carrie Lazarus.

Funds raised via the cook-off benefit Nature in the City, Baltimore Woods’ K-6 science education program in Syracuse and Auburn.

Last year’s event sold out, so don’t delay on making reservations.

Event details:

What: EnvIRONmental Chef Homegrown Cook-Off, to benefit Baltimore Woods

When: 3 to 6 p.m. Sunday, September 8

Where: Baltimore Woods, 4007 Bishop Hill Road, Marcellus

Tickets: General admission, $75; patrons, $100

Reservations: Call 315-673-1350 or visit www.baltimorewoods.org.

Greenwood Winery: a new winery in the suburbs of Syracuse

If you don’t mind a little dust and construction, you can now sample wines at DeWitt’s first winery.

Greenwood Winery, at 6475 Collamer Road (Route 298), opened to the public several weeks ago. Construction of a bar and bistro, adjacent to the tasting room and wine-processing building, will soon begin.

DeWitt’s first winery? A winery in the suburbs? It’s not as strange as it sounds. Grapes are now being grown in an estimated 80 percent of New York’s counties.

And wineries are popping up all over New York State: along Lake Ontario, in the Thousand Islands, near Watertown, on the Tug Hill Plateau, near the Adirondacks and Lake Champlain.

Greenwood Winery is an artisan winery owned and operated by local real estate developer Tom Greenwood. Wines are made from grapes grown in DeWitt and in the Finger Lakes. The tasting area shares space with sparkling new storage tanks and crush pads.

Most of the grapes Greenwood is growing are cold-hardy varieties developed by developed by Cornell University and the University of Minnesota: Traminette, Noiret, Chancellor, Marechal Foch and others.

In a Riesling rut? Looking to branch out from your nightly Merlot? Eight wines are available for tasting: four whites, a blush wine and three reds. Our $5 tasting included our choice of five wines and came with a souvenir glass.

I’m no wine expert, not by a long shot, but I do know what I like. I particularly enjoyed the Traminette, a crisp white wine that reminded me of the sunny Gewurztraminers I’ve enjoyed in the Finger Lakes, as well as two reds, the Noiret and Enthusiasm (Chancellor). The reds are dry but not bone dry. They’re full-bodied and flavorful, with a clean, smooth finish.

They definitely have a place at home, as we transition from light summer meals to heartier fall and winter fare, like soups, stews and braised meats.

They also have a place right at the Greenwood Winery, which has tables and Adirondack chairs on a patio overlooking the small vineyard. Wines are available by the glass, and bottles range in price from $10 to $14.

There’s also a small market section with local and regional food products, like Thousand Island River Rat cheeses and mustards, artisan breads, olives and cured meats – and other items that pair nicely with wine. A small farmstand holds tomatoes, cucumbers, summer squashes and other produce for sale, all from Greenwood’s nearby farm, we were told.

Stroll around the vineyards and you’ll lose awareness of the car and truck traffic on Route 298.

Enjoy a glass of wine and a little picnic on the patio.

You’ll think you’re in wine country instead of the wine suburbs.

Note: Greenwood Winery won a Gold medal for its Baco Noir at the recent New York Wine and Food Classic, considered the Oscars of New York State wine. It was not available to taste when we visited – one more reason to visit again.

Greenwood Winery is at 6475 Collamer Road (Route 298), DeWitt, a couple miles east of Carrier Circle. Tasting room hours are 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday, noon to 6 p.m. Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. For information call 315-399-0835.

Artisan pizza meets art at Flame, a new restaurant in Syracuse

After two years of design and construction, Flame is open for business on East Fayette Street in Syracuse. It's a good bet this restaurant will catch fire when droves of students return to the city and the fall semester at Syracuse University begins in a few weeks.

Flame is the creation of sculptor and artist Tash Taskale, a native of Turkey who studied art in France and at Syracuse University and lives and works in Central New York. One of the most visible examples of Taskale’s work is “01101,’’ a large, galvanized steel sphere, made from thousands of welded steel parts, in Lemp Park, at the corner of East Fayette and South Warren Streets in downtown Syracuse.

The sleek restaurant seats about 50 and has taken shape in Taskale’s former studio space at 713 E. Fayette St. It’s casual, comfortable and friendly – and will be cozy come fall and winter.

The focal point of the bar and dining area is a fire pit cut carved from a single piece of Vermont granite. The focal point of the kitchen is a custom-made wood-fired brick oven, where Flame’s signature Turkish-style flatbread pizzas are cooked.

The Alsace pizza at Flame

Flame is in the midst of a “soft opening,’’ testing the waters with just a few menu items. On the night we visited, three pizzas were offered: the Flame, the Alsace and the Brooklyn.

Over a couple glasses of St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc from California (which might become our new favorite wine!), we savored and shared two flatbread pizzas.

The Flame pizza ($7) features ground lamb and beef, parsley, onion and tomatoes, while the Alsace ($7) features Canadian bacon, onion, creme fraiche and farmers cheese. The crusts were thin, crisp and perfectly done and the toppings are a welcome change from the usual, everyday pizza toppings. The pizzas are garnished with a small dome of chopped salad in the middle – designed to be scooped and rolled up with pizza as you devour the small slices.

As Flame moves forward, look for additional menu items to be rolled out, including soups, salads, items from the grill (burgers, chicken) and daily small plate specials. The restaurant has beer, wine and a full bar.

UPDATE: Starting this weekend (Aug. 17), Flame will expand its soft opening with weekend brunches, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.

We don’t usually visit restaurants during their opening period – it’s good to give places time gain their footing and work the kinks out before forming an opinion. But it was fun to be one of the first to get a taste of Flame and its tasty brand of artisan pizza.

We’ll be back!

Flame is at 713 E. Fayette St., Syracuse. Soft opening hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday to Sunday. Look for more expanded hours and menu in the weeks ahead. For information, call 423-5263. 

Flame's domed pizza oven can be seen in the rear (right).

Happy National Zucchini Day, Central New York!

Today is National Zucchini Day, also known as “Sneak Some Zucchini onto Your Neighbors' Porch Day," because home gardens tend to be overflowing with zucchini this time of year.

Our garden isn’t overflowing with zucchini, but we happily accept donations (especially of small- and medium-size zucchini and yellow squash) and buy it at farmers markets. At three for $1, usually, zucchini can’t be beat.

 National Zucchini Day is not to be confused with National Zucchini Bread Day (April 24).

 Here are a couple savory ways to get your zucchini on. 

 

Zucchini Boats

1 cup brown or regular rice, cooked

3 medium zucchini, ends trimmed, sliced vertical

1 pound ground beef, optional

1 medium onion, diced

1 red pepper, diced

2 plump cloves garlic, minced

Olive oil

Salt and pepper

Dash of cayenne pepper (optional)

Half a pint of grape tomatoes or cherry tomatoes, halved (or a half cup of tomato sauce)

8 ounces mozzarella cheese, shredded

Handful of fresh basil, cut in thin strips

Parmesan cheese for garnish

Cook rice according to package directions. Put aside. This step can be done in advance.

Slice the zucchini vertical and hollow out the zucchini to make boats. One way to do this is by using a melon baller or the edge of a spoon. Put the zucchini flesh in a large bowl and break it up some with a wooden spoon or potato masher.

Heat some olive oil in a large pan. Brown the beef and season as desired. Drain well and set aside.

Add the onion and red pepper to the same pan, adding more oil if needed. Add a pinch of salt. Cook over medium heat for about seven minutes, until onion is translucent. Add the garlic toward the end of cooking time. Don’t let it brown.  Add the zucchini flesh, stir to combine, break it up further if needed and continue cooking until zucchini is soft. Toward the end, add the halved grape tomatoes and continue cooking until they are wilted and soft.

Combine the vegetables, beef, rice, mozzarella and basil in a large bowl. Add salt, pepper and cayenne (if using) to taste. If necessary to bind everything together, add an egg, some vegetable broth, tomato juice or tomato sauce. Spoon the filling mixture into the hollowed out zucchini halves, mounding it. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese.

Bake at 375 degrees for about 30 minutes, until heated through. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

 

Pasta with Summer Vegetable Medley

Olive oil

1 medium onion, diced

1 or 2 carrots, peeled and diced (optional)

1 red pepper, diced

1 medium zucchini and 1 yellow squash, ends trimmed, diced

2 plump cloves garlic, minced (or to taste)

2 portobello mushrooms, cleaned well, stems removed, diced (see note)

Half a pint of grape tomatoes, halved or half a cup of sun-dried tomatoes, cut in strips

Half a cup of oil cured or kalamata olives, sliced

Salt and pepper to taste

Pasta cooked according to package directions

Shredded asiago or grated Parmesan cheese for garnish

Basil leaves or Italian parsley, to garnish

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion, carrots (if using), and red pepper and a big pinch of salt. Cook until vegetables begin to soften. Add zucchini and cook until it begins to soften but still has some bit to it. Add the garlic and combine well. Add the diced mushrooms and continue cooking. Add the grape tomatoes and cook until they are softened. Add the olives at the very end and combine well. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Depending on your appetite, serve about a cup of the vegetable mixture with your favorite pasta, cooked how you like it. I have been using Barilla’s vegetable farfalle (carrot and squash) lately and really like it. Top with some cheese and garnish with basil leaves or Italian parsley. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: Use eggplant in place of portobellos if you like.

Cazenovia’s Circa ponders options, next chapter

Most of us are in denial that school starts in a few weeks, the days are getting noticeably shorter and the year is almost in its final quarter.

Alicyn Hart is already looking ahead to 2014 – and thinking about what it holds for her and her restaurant.

Hart, executive chef and owner of Circa New American Bistro/Market in Cazenovia, has decided not to renew the three-year lease on the space at 76 Albany St. (Route 20), that Circa has occupied since 2006.

In the seven years Circa has been there, her rent has doubled, Hart says. It’s ironic, she adds, that she sends a check each month to an overseas landlord to pay for a space that shines the light on local farmers and locally grown foods.

Hart made her plans known last month, in a short article she wrote for an advertising supplement to The Cazenovia Republican. Circa’s lease is up May 31, 2014. After that, the future is unwritten.

“I don’t know what I’m going to do and I’m not really worried about it,’’ Hart said Friday (Aug. 2). She said she is exploring options and has had several “interesting discussions’’ with people about possible spaces and locations for a new restaurant. She is open to having conversations and hearing ideas, but is not making any plans at this time.

Hart added that she is in excellent health following the successful removal of a brain tumor in March of 2012, but noted “an experience like that does change you.’’

“It’s time to simplify,’’ Hart said. “I feel like I have fulfilled our mission of introducing the community to local food and putting local out there.’’

Hart, a native of New England, has worked all over the world as a chef and taught culinary arts classes at BOCES before opening Circa in 2006. Her son, Owen, was born the same year.

Circa’s menu changes weekly and focuses on seasonal, locally grown produce, meats and other ingredients, prepared simply to play up their freshness and flavor. Some of her purveyors, such as Ingallside Meadows Farm, have been on board since day one. The restaurant is local down to its tables and bar, made from reclaimed barnboard and other wood by Hart’s husband, Eric Woodworth.

A chalkboard in the restaurant, which seats about 45, gives a shoutout to Circa’s local purveyors, as does her menu. The greens with the Nicoise salad I enjoyed for lunch were from Smitty’s Market Farm, Morrisville; the tomatoes from Emmi’s in Baldwinsville. The scoop of ice cream on top of your blueberry cobbler? It’s from local favorite Kimberly’s.

When Hart introduced Main Street Cazenovia to the concept of a restaurant that sources almost entirely from its own backyard, “local’’ was far from the buzzword and growing movement that it has become today, Hart says.

Today, some of the farmers Hart has supported over the years have found a market for their products in major retail markets like New York and Boston – and in some cases outgrown the need for wholesale customers in their own communities.

“Going to a farmers market is cooler than going to Wegmans now,’’ she says. “Local food is being recognized for its sustainability, its health benefits and because it tastes good.’’

Whatever the future holds for Alicyn and Circa, I wish her success and salute her for being a trailblazer in Central New York’s local food movement.

Circa is at 76 Albany St. in Cazenovia. The restaurant is open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday. Information: Call 315-655-8768.