Eat First

Yes we CAN!

 
Maybe you see the shelves of canning jars and lids and assorted gear at your farm market or grocery store and think to yourself: “Canning? No can do! It’s not worth the time and energy.’’

Yes, canning is precision cooking (see Organic Gardening’s home canning basics). And it is a bit of a time suck. Begin a canning project and everything else in life is takes a back seat.

So why do we can when we could buy?

There’s no one answer to that question, but as sure as summer goes by in the blink of an eye, we do it. Every year. It has become a bit of a compulsion. A way to seize the moment – and what’s in season – and make it last.

The question has become: Why not can?

Here are seven reasons you might find us carrying home a flat of late-harvest tomatoes, daydreaming about doing something – but what?!? -- with local apples, bathing cucumber slices in brine and spices for days on end and sweating over the stove:

 

1. Preserving the local harvest 

The same things that draw us to the Regional Market and other local markets in the first place – connecting with farmers for fresh produce, learning about their crops and knowing where our food comes from – inspire us to get out the canning pot and jars.

Last week, while speaking to a friendly farmer from Sodus who proudly showed off the sun-ripened, blushing nectarines he brought to market – I knew my next batch of jam would be nectarine jam.

2. Connecting with the past

The sight of strawberries in June and tomatoes and Concord grapes in late summer takes me back to the days when Mom canned. Boy, did she can: Jams, jellies, pickles, tomato sauce, chili sauce, you name it. Her mother canned, and so did her mother’s mother, no doubt.

A few recreational jam sessions today is a walk in the park compared to the days when, for many women (and men), canning was a ritual born of absolute economic necessity.

3. Eco awareness

The reuse-recycle aspect is part of the appeal of canning – the box of jars we buy today will get lots of mileage: They can be used again and again.

But it’s more than that. Growing something or purchasing something homegrown at the market, bringing it into your kitchen, putting it in jars and storing it for later use reduces “food miles’’ – the distance food travels to reach our plates. Canning is one more way to eat local.

4. Save money, honey

Nine jars of Sodus nectarine jam cost all of $5 to make. That’s the cost of the fruit, essentially. You can’t beat that!

On hand already are the other necessary ingredients (sugar, lemons for juice) and gear (jars, lids and rings).

5. Personal satisfaction

Hearing the “ping’’ of lids as they seal is almost as good as hearing the pop of a wine or Champagne cork.

Seeing the growing assortment of food you’ve made lined up on shelves in the basement? Now that’s food you feel good about. 

6. Good taste

Let’s not forget the appeal of shmearing plum-vanilla or strawberry-rhubarb jam on something hot out of the toaster or oven on a cold winter day. Take that, Smuckers! There is simply no comparison.

7. Gifts from the kitchen – and the heart

Stocked shelves of homemade jams, jellies and pickles ensure we have host/hostess gifts at hand – and something to put a pretty bow on for everyone on our holiday list.

Rare is the person who doesn’t like to receive something you’ve made by hand. Hopefully they’ll give your “product” a positive review – and return to you a clean jar to use again.

Zucchini: Pasta goes green

Zucchini is in abundance in gardens and at farmers markets right now. Ask your gardening neighbors for one or two, and they'll gladly hand over an armful of them. Yet rarely does zucchini get the starring role in recipes and on our plates.

We steam, saute and grill it to serve as a side dish, slice it into ribbons for salads, grate it for use in quick breads and stuff it with rice, tomatoes and cheese to make zucchini “boats.”

This simple pasta preparation, a variation of a recipe from Mark Bittman (The Minimalist), is easy, wholesome and comforting, with a pleasant crunch from zucchini that’s not overcooked.

We shared some with my mother the other night, and she called to say a) how nice it was to not have to cook and b) what a nice change this pasta is from pasta bathed in red sauce.

Right she is.

Pasta With Zucchini, Ricotta and Basil

1 medium onion, diced

¼ cup plus 1-2 teaspoons olive oil

3 small-to-medium zucchini, diced

1 large clove of garlic, minced

1 cup fresh basil, cut in ribbons

1 pound whole wheat or multi-grain pasta

1 cup ricotta cheese

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil on the stove for cooking the pasta.

Meanwhile, cook onion in 1-2 teaspoons olive oil until translucent.  Reserve for later use.

In a large pan, heat ¼ cup olive oil over medium-high heat. Add diced zucchini and cook until zucchini begins to brown. Reduce heat and continue cooking zucchini for about 15 minutes. The heat should not be too high; the zucchini should be crisp-tender, not mushy.  During the last few minutes of cooking, add the garlic to the pan; stir well to combine.

Time pasta cooking to coincide with last 10 minutes of zucchini cooking. At the same time, heat a large bowl. To the heated bowl add the ricotta and about half of the basil. As the pasta nears the end of its cooking, reserve about a half-cup of pasta water and use it to thin the ricotta to sauce consistency, stirring well.

Add both cooked zucchini and pasta to the bowl holding the ricotta. Toss well. Add remaining basil and grated Parmesan cheese. Toss again.

Serve pasta in warm bowls. Makes about 6 servings.

 
 
 

A fresh take on tomato sauce

“What are you making, hon?,” my other half asked, passing through the kitchen on his way to the basement. “Salsa?”

His question was understandable.

In a bowl sat a small pile of diced, peak-of-summer tomatoes, wearing nothing but a pinch of salt and sugar to pull out their juices.

In another half hour, the tomatoes would be tossed with olive oil, minced shallots, a bit of red onion, a handful of chopped kalamata olives, capers, garlic, a few snips of fresh basil and Italian parsley for a fresh take on tomato sauce.

There is nothing like a long-cooked red sauce, reduced for days to render it thick, hearty and smooth, with the depth of flavor that slow, back-burner cooking yields.

But fresh sauce is a nice change of pace, especially when the heat is on. Throw together a batch using what you have at hand and heat the pasta water outside on the grill.

Your kitchen will stay cool and so will you.

Fresh Tomato Sauce for Two

2 medium-large tomatoes, cored and diced

Salt

Sugar

Olive oil

2 tablespoons minced shallots, or to taste

2 tablespoons minced red onion, or to taste

2 plump cloves of garlic, minced

Handful of kalamata olives, chopped

1-2 tablespoons capers, chopped

About 20 leaves fresh basil, snipped

A few sprigs fresh Italian parsley, snipped

Grated cheese for garnish, optional

6 ounces pasta, cooked according to package directions

Place diced tomatoes in a bowl and add a pinch each of salt and sugar to extract their juices. Cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for a half hour or more.

Drizzle tomatoes with olive oil. Add shallots, red onion, garlic, olives, capers, basil and parsley. Toss gently. Add a lit more oil. The sauce shouldn’t be very oily, just oily enough to cling to the pasta a bit.

Serve on hot pasta, toss gently and garnish with cheese if you like. Serve with a green salad tossed with something other than tomatoes.

Eat…and enjoy!

 

Stop the car (in the Finger Lakes)!

My ultimate Finger Lakes destination Saturday was a remote cabin on a pond, in the wine country near Keuka Lake, where longtime friends spend summer weekends.

It’s a relaxing two-hour drive from Syracuse, a journey, mainly, along roads less traveled. There’s plenty to see, and we rarely go directly there – or home.

There’s so much to stop the car for!

Such as:

Grape sherbet! I couldn’t drive by this sign at Mr. Twistee’s, County Road 6 (Preemption Road), Geneva, twice in two days without pulling in to investigate.

We’ve sampled wine ice cream before, but not grape sherbet. It’s sweet, light and refreshing – and the color of pale lilacs, as you can see. That’s a SMALL cone, believe it or not ($3). 

 
A new (to us) winery: Keuka Lake Vineyards, one of the newer wineries that surround Keuka Lake, specializes in dry, European-style estate wines. A $5 fee gets you tastings of about 10 wines.

 KLV’s Rieslings were nice and the Vignoles was a pleasant change of pace. We also were impressed by the labor that went into this sign in the tasting room, made entirely from corks. The winery is on County Route 76, a couple miles north of the village of Hammondsport.

A market bursting with fresh produce: Some people are drawn to Naples for grape pie. I’m drawn to the picturesque village by Joseph’s Wayside Market, a large, open-air market and country store with an in-house bakery.

 

On Sunday, the place wore the perfume of ripe peaches and tables were laden with homegrown tomatoes, corn, raspberries, blueberries, beans and more. Check back for an upcoming post on Joseph’s.

A flower cart in the country: This cart on Route 245, a couple miles south of Routes 5 and 20, near Geneva, is like a dollar store for small bunches of fresh-cut flowers, like gladiolus, cosmos and Japenese lanterns.

Leave a dollar bill or two in the honor box and take home a fragrant reminder of your Finger Lakes travels.

 

 

 

Anyela’s Vineyards: A grape escape close to home

Think Finger Lakes wineries and you probably think of Seneca Lake, with more than 36 wineries to explore, and Cayuga Lake with 15. Try to visit them all in a day: No way.

Closer to home (home being Syracuse and vicinity) is Skaneateles Lake, which has just one winery, at least for now: Anyela’s Vineyards. It’s a perfect staycation or daycation destination, either on its own, as part of a leisurely drive around the lake or pleasant detour from the village of Skaneateles.

Anyela’s is owned by the Nocek family, who grow grapes for their wines at this property, with stunning lake views, and near Fredonia, in Western New York.

The tasting room is open noon to 5 p.m. daily, with extended hours on Fridays and Saturdays in the summer. From a list of eight whites and eight reds, select your choice of five samples for $2. 

Wine connoisseurs we are not, but we know what we like: dry whites and reds that pair well with what we like to eat: pasta, grilled meats and seafood, salads, homemade pizza, paninis, etc. 

I sampled two whites (2009 dry Riesling and 2010 semi-dry Riesling), as well as the 2006 Rose of Pinot Noir, 2008 Pinot Noir and 2008 Noiret. 

My favorites of the five: the crisp and clean dry Riesling and slightly pepper/spicy Noiret, a new variety of grape developed at Cornell University’s Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva. Our pourer said it pairs nicely with spicy dishes, like Thai food. 

Part of us wanted to head home with something other than Riesling, the region’s signature white wine, but Anyela’s version was so refreshing on a hot summer day we bought a bottle to enjoy outside (they gladly will recork what you don’t finish) and a bottle to enjoy another time. 

Our tasting took place in the wine cellar – the upstairs tasting room was closed due to a private party.

During the week, you can purchase cheese plates to enjoy with a glass or bottle of wine. And lunch, featuring fresh fare from Anyela’s gardens, is served from noon to 3 p.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday (in season). 

If you summer day trip itinerary includes a hop over to wine country, don’t forget about Anyela’s.

Anyela’s Vineyards is at 2433 W. Lake Road, about five miles south of the village of Skaneateles. Information: 315- 685-3797.