Swimming in Thousand Island dressing

Photo courtesy of Wikipedia

You probably know that Thousand Island dressing has roots in -- where else? -- the Thousand Islands region straddling New York and Ontario, Canada.

But do you know the story behind the tangy, slightly sweet condiment that adds color (pale pink or pale orange) and flavor to salads and sandwiches?

I didn't, until I suggested a story on the region's signature foodstuff to my editors at The Good Life Central New York Magazine, a bi-monthly publication of The Post-Standard. My piece on the dressing, along with a spread on Thousand Island cottages, is featured in the July-August issue of the magazine, available on newsstands now.

In the course of sinking my teeth into this story, I learned more than anyone really needs to know about Thousand Island dressing. Some of the highlights:

1. Thousand Island dressing is the only salad dressing named for a region of the United States. It's not as popular as Italian, Ranch and Caesar dressings, but it's an American favorite all the same.

2. At the Thousand Islands Inn, in Clayton, owners Allen and Susan Benas make, bottle, label, sell and serve what they proudly call “the original’’ Thousand Island dressing. It sells for $6.95 at the inn and at local stores, like the River Rat Cheese shop in Clayton.

Allen and Susan inherited the "secret recipe" for the dressing when they bought the inn in 1972, and trace its origins to the shore dinners served at the turn of the century by fishing guide George LaLonde. His dinners included a tossed salad and special dressing made by his wife, Sophia.

Photo of Sophia LaLonde courtesy of Allen Benas, Thousand Islands Inn

On one fishing outing, according to Allen Benas, George LaLonde served Sophia's dressing to stage and silent screen actress May Irwin, a frequent visitor to the region. Sophia LaLonde shared her recipe with Irwin, who is believed to have given it the name “Thousand Island,’’ and with Ella Bertrand, whose family owned the Herald Hotel in Clayton (now the Thousand Islands Inn).

It is said that Irwin gave the recipe to fellow Thousand Islands regular George Boldt, owner of New York's Waldorf Astoria Hotel, who put the dressing on the Waldorf's menu, giving it national and international exposure.

3. A dressing dispute:  Up the road in Alexandria Bay, you might not hear the same story. A souvenir postcard of the Thousand Islands includes the “secret” recipe for Thousand Island dressing and a blurb crediting George Boldt with its creation:

“This dressing was first served aboard a yacht to George Boldt, owner of the Waldorf Astoria and Boldt Castle. He began serving it in his hotels and named it in honor of the area.’’ Bottles of Thousand Island dressing, made in Canada, are available for purchase at Boldt Castle, on Heart Island.

4. Dressing ingredients vary depending on who's making it, but usually include oil and/or mayonnaise, eggs, vinegar, lemon juice, tomatoes (or catsup), cucumbers, red pepper, onions, horseradish, garlic powder and sometimes a bit of sugar.

5. I am not a big fan of Thousand Island dressing, so I was pleasantly surprised by the "original'' dressing at the Thousand Island Inn. It's creamy and pale orange and not very thick, with chopped eggs adding texture and bits of chopped pickles adding flecks of green. The dressing has a fresh, homemade taste, with a noticeable but not overwhelming zing from horseradish.

If your travels take you to Clayton this summer, pick up a bottle of "original" Thousand Island dressing and see for yourself.

And pick up a copy of The Good Life Central New York Magazine. Included with my story is a recipe for Thousand Island dressing created by chef Gerry Brinkman as an homage to his summer home. Brinkman serves the dressing with house salads at  The Wellesley Hotel, on Wellesley Island, which he owns and operates with his wife.

Comments

[Margaret]

Thanks, Gina! I had fun working on that story and Clayton is a really lovely place to visit if you and the family are up that way this summer... I know you like to go camping. I will e-mail you the Thousand Island dressing recipe from The Wellesley Hotel in Thousand Island Park (another really neat place). Hope you're doing well and enjoying summer.

[Gina Chen]

Yum!

I had heard about the roots of Thousdand Island dressing during a visit to Boldt Castle, but you have lots of details I didn't know.

I like Thousand Island dressing a lot -- if it's a good version. Thanks for reminding me how much I like it.