Eat First

In a New York (food map) State of mind

Where do we live?

North of Spiedies. South of Thousand Island Dressing and Croghan Bologna. East of  Beef on Weck, Chicken Wings, Garbage Plate and White Hots. West of  Peppermint Pig, Chicken Riggies, Tomato Pie and Utica Greens.

We live in the land of Salt Potatoes and Dinosaur BBQ. We are firmly planted in soda country, well east of the Empire State’s Soda vs. Pop line.

If you love food and love to discover local and regional favorites, none of this is breaking news. But New York’s diverse food terrain is officially noted on an appetizing and entertaining map, “New York State by Food Regions,’’ created by Shannon Glazer, a Geographic Information Services specialist with the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation.

“Inspired by my visits to all corners of New York State, I recently decided to map different food regions in the state,’’ Glazer notes on the New York State Food Map Facebook page. The map has been “shared” more than 2,500 times. 

“After the first version of my map spread like wildfire, I decided to edit the map based on some of the comments I received. … 

“I'm starting this page to continue the conversation! Post your thoughts on local food here...Check out the "likes" on the page for more info about some of the restaurants and foods on the map!’’

My editor at Central New York: The Good Life Magazine turned me on to Glazer’s accomplishment. The May/June issue features a story on the treasure-filled foodie map, as well stories on Upstate travel destinations in all directions of Syracuse.

I can live without Michigans (a Plattsburgh specialty; hotdogs piled with onions and smothered in mustard and meat sauce) but I am bound and determined (translation: hellbent!) to get to Brooks Chicken BBQ country (Oneonta), possibly on the way to Mozzarella Sticks with Raspberry Sauce (Albany/Capital Region).

Thanks, Shannon. Happy food trails!

Still savoring delicious memories of Cape Cod

We have so many excellent food memories from our trip to Cape Cod in October:

The Portuguese soup from the famous Lobster Pot restaurant in Provincetown. Tomatoes, linguica, potatoes, kale, spices. Mmmm, mmmm good!

The trutas (delicate pastries with sweet potato filling) and other beautiful baked goods from the Portuguese Bakery down the street. Unlike any we’ve ever had before.

The fully loaded cioppino at the Chatham Squire. And the lobsters from Dennisport Lobster Co. that Robert rolled up his sleeves and prepared in our borrowed kitchen.

But the most delicious take-away from this trip is the memory of our delightful weekday brunch at Hangar B Eatery, at the teeny-tiny Chatham Airport. If every airport had food this good, air travel would be much more enjoyable!

On a sunny and breezy autumn morning, we climbed on our bicycles in Harwich Port and rode five miles east on the Cape Cod Rail Trail to the popular breakfast and lunch destination, which occupies a small spot upstairs at the airport.

There, Chef Brian Erskine, a graduate of Johnson and Wales University, holds forth – solo – in a small kitchen with all the tools of his trade in easy reach. In peak season, he prepares and plates 300 meals a day, without benefit of a sous chef.

As for his food, it’s fresh, local and creative. The coffee is from Chatham Coffee Roasters, the juice is fresh squeezed, the jams, jellies and granola are homemade, as are the baked goods, like muffins and donuts. Made fresh each morning.

Robert ordered the omelet of the day, which was stuffed with roasted tomatoes, arugula and Vermont cheddar cheese and served with well-done home fries.

I feasted on Huevos Rancheros, a Mexican breakfast I am highly unlikely to make at home. It paired fried eggs, black beans, roasted tomatoes and avocado with toasted tortillas on the side for sopping things up – or slathering with jam.

Huevos Rancheros, Hangar B style

You’ll also find pancakes and waffles on the menu, as well as healthy fare like smoothies and oatmeal. Brunch for two, with juices, coffee, tax and tip, cost about $40.

We were so impressed with this place and its talented owner and so glad we visited in the off-season, when Chef Brian gets a breather and inquisitive diners like us get a chance to bend his ear.

From Hangar B, we pedaled to downtown Chatham, strolled its streets and park and browsed its shops, before hitting the rail trail again for the ride home – and to burn off some of that brunch.

Hangar B Eatery is at the Chatham Airport, 240 George Ryder Road, Chatham, MA. The restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch year-round, and has outdoor seating in season. In the off-season, Hangar B is closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Information: 508-593-3655.

 

 

 

Full of Greens: Utica Greens!

Greens Morelle, Dominique's Chesterfield Restaurant, Utica

Many local foods have a place in the hearts -- and stomachs -- of Utica residents: Chicken riggies, tomato pie, Half Moon cookies, pusties (better known as pasticiotti here in Syracuse). 

And let's not forget Utica greens. 

This staple of restaurant chefs and home cooks owes its existence to Utica's Italian-American community and takes escarole, a common salad green, in a whole other direction. It's chopped, blanched, sauteed in olive oil, then tossed with prosciutto (usually), cherry peppers, Parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs and piled on a plate. 

Voila! That's how escarole becomes Utica Greens, an appetizer to share or a complete meal, depending on how you want to eat it -- and how much you want to eat. 

Our travels took us to Rome and Utica recently, and we weren't about to leave the Mohawk Valley until we were full of greens.

First stop was Dominque's Chesterfield Restaurant, on Bleecker Street on Utica's east side. The restaurant is well-known for its Greens Morelle, named for chef Joe Morelle, who added the dish to the menu at Dominque's many years back, according to our bartender/waiter. 

The generous portion of greens ($8.99) was savory and well-seasoned, rich and filling thanks to prosciutto, Romano cheese and breadcrumbs and slightly zippy, courtesy of the thinly sliced cherry peppers that dotted the dish. The greens were served with crusty Italian bread and dipping oil, and a single serving was plenty for two of us.

Greens Giorgio, Giorgio's Village Cafe, New Hartford

Second stop was Giorgio's Village Cafe in New Hartford. The menu offers several takes on greens, including Greens Giorgio ($8.50), which combines escarole with Romano cheese, salami, hot cherry peppers, roasted potatoes and seasoned bread crumbs.

They were tasty, to be sure, but the presence of the potatoes in the greens made us think of fretta (a popular breakfast scramble here in Central New York) and made the dish seem heavy.

If we were to go back to Utica for greens, and it seems inevitable we will, we'll go back to Dominque's Chesterfield.

Apple Pusties, a seasonal treat at Florentine Pastry Shop, Utica

Besides the lure of its greens, the restaurant is conveniently located within walking distance of several of Utica's Italian bakeries, including the Florentine Pastry Shop, also on Bleecker Street, where we picked up a couple pusties (single-serving pastries filled with chocolate, vanilla or lemon custard) and some Italian cookies for the road. 

Do you have a favorite place in Utica or Syracuse or anywhere in between you like to go for greens? Let's get a dialogue going -- leave a comment below! 

 Photo courtesy of Stef Noble

Want to try your hand at Utica Greens at home? The following recipe is from an old newspaper ad for Chanatry's Market in Utica. 

Utica Greens

1 large escarole (or 2 small heads)

4 slices prosciutto, thin slices, chopped

1 to 2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 long Italian hot peppers, seeded and julienned

1/2 cup breadcrumbs

1/4 cup Pecorino Romano cheese, grated

1 cup chicken broth

Salt and pepper to taste

Clean and rinse escarole twice; chop in large pieces.

Boil down for 5 or 6 minutes so it’s tender and wilted.

Place olive oil in a saute pan and heat.

Add chopped garlic and prosciutto and render for 2 or 3 minutes. Do not burn garlic.

Add seeded peppers and cook another minute or so.

Add the escarole and all the other ingredients in the pan.

Gradually add the breadcrumbs and grated cheese, tossing gently until blended.

Taste for final salt and pepper seasoning.

Place in a casserole; sprinkle a little of the breadcrumbs and place under a broiler for 3 to 4 minutes. Serve hot.

 

Savor the foliage -- and Bob's Barbecue

It's last-chance season here in Central New York. Last chance for drinks and dinner on the veranda (it's getting dark sooooo early!), last chance for bicycle outings, last chance to wear capris and sandals.

Autumn has arrived and the leaves are changing color. It's a good time to take a drive in the country -- and enjoy a last-chance country barbecue at Bob's Barbecue, in Homer, before it closes for the season.

Bob's, on State Route 281, is well known to barbecue fans and bikers. If you've attended a church barbecue or firemen's field days in these parts, you might have enjoyed Bob's Barbecue without even knowing it.

  

I don't know this for an absolute fact, but it seems the presence of the New York Jets training camp at SUNY Cortland has been good to Bob's, sending new and repeat business its way. The owners added a grand new pavilion this year, which doubles as space for private parties. 

Bob's claim to fame is meat -- chicken, ribs, brisket, pork -- cooked "low and slow" over wood and charcoal. It's not your sticky, sweet red sauce kind of barbecue. The chicken, for example, looks to be dry-rubbed and basted with a Cornell-style (oil and vinegar) sauce. Bob's homemade sauces (mild to hot) are served on the side.

The menu includes a la carte items like pulled pork, pulled chicken and brisket sandwiches and a selection of dinners (quarter-chicken, half-chicken and others, most under $10) that come with your choice of two sides (cornbread, coleslaw, macaroni salad, salt potatoes and the like).

I've had the half-chicken dinner on several occasions and always come home with leftovers. The last time we were down Bob's way, we got a pile of ribs to go ($9 a pound) and reheated them at home. They survived the 35-minute trip, no problem, and tasted great a couple hours later.

Bob's is owned and operated by George Haskell and his wife, Phyllis. George's mother gets credit for the long list of homemade pies available for dessert, like Key lime, apple, peach and coconut cream ($3.50).

It's strictly a seasonal place, with picnic tables on the lawn and no indoor seating, so dress warmly if there's an autumn chill in the air. The restaurant does not serve alcohol, and alcohol is not permitted on the grounds. 

Bob's Barbecue is open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Thursday to Sunday through mid-October, and will reopen in May. Look for a cloud of smoke billowing across Route 281 and you're there.

Leave the BBQing to Limp Lizard Roadside Cantina

Spice rubbed meat, slowly smoked and roasted outside: We're smelling it wafting through the air all over Central New York this Memorial Day weekend, as we work in our yards, walk our dogs, ride our bikes and take in parades. We're doing the barbecue thing ourselves today, and the thought of leaving the work to someone else is what lured us to the Limp Lizard Roadside Cantina and Catering Depot on Main Street (Route 11) in North Syracuse last night. The small restaurant is a suburban outpost of the popular Limp Lizard Lounge on Onondaga Boulevard, on the west side of Syracuse.
THE VIBE: Barbecue and bikers go together like leather and denim, and we wondered if we'd be the only diners not to arrive on a Harley and accessorize ourselves with tattoos. We found a mixed crowd: Twenty- and thirtysomethings, families, bikers and senior citizens, some dining inside and others sharing space and talking 'cue at picnic tables under umbrellas outside.
LIQUID ASSETS: You'll find about 10 beers on tap and wines by the glass. The locavore in us was drawn to the Limp Lizard Ale, brewed by Middle Ages Brewing Company in Syracuse. Refreshing! THE MENU: Besides stuff from the smoker and food with Tex-Mex (quesadillas) and Louisiana flavor (jambalaya), you'll find soups, salads, appetizers, burgers, sandwiches and wraps. There's also a selection of family takeout dinners with your choice of sides, designed to serve four people.
CHOWIN' DOWN: Robert settled on the "kick butt" Carolina pulled pork with coleslaw on the side. The meat was moist, tender and somewhat smoky in flavor and piled high on a soft white roll. He was happy with his choice of sides, collard greens (you don't see those on menus every day) and nicely browned and crisped French fries.

I had the southwestern chicken salad, which has a tortilla bowl as a base. It was filled with romaine, iceberg and spring greens, layered with pulled/shredded chicken, shredded cheese, diced tomatoes, red onion and sliced olives and topped with southwest ranch dressing, served on the side. The salad was dense and filling with all its layers and textures, and two people could easily share one, along with a shared appetizer or plate of cornbread. WHAT'S A VEGETARIAN GOING TO FIND?: Baked black bean soup served in a bread bowl; a house salad; bean tacos; fried mushrooms (an appetizer) and sides like slaw, roasted corn, macaroni salad and cornbread. You might be in carnivore heaven, but you'll find plenty to make a meal of. DESSERT: A selection of pies, cakes and other sugary things changes daily. The Big Dip, a popular spot for soft-serve ice cream is two doors down and was enjoying a steady stream of traffic on a nice night. We headed to Geddes Bakery, also on Main Street, and lined up for an Italian-style frozen treat: gelato. Dozens of flavors of it. THE DAMAGES: $26 for two meals and two beers (and $8 more for two small dishes of gelato). WOULD WE GO BACK? If we're in the neighborhood and in the mood for barbecue, you bet. DETAILS: The Limp Lizard Roadside Cantina and Catering Depot is at 224 N. Main St., North Syracuse. Phone: 315-299-5747.

 

Blue Danube: C'est (or Say) Cheese in Skaneateles

  I know my travels won't be taking me to Spain any time soon. So I hope they at least take me to Skaneateles. I've eaten the last delicious morsel of Valdeon blue cheese, imported from Spain, that I picked up last month at Blue Danube Gourmet to Go.

Erica Derrick, who owns and operates the cheese shop/gourmet food store with her partner, Lorand Ernyey, introduced me to Valdeon (vahl-day-own) when I asked her to recommend a blue cheese.

Now I'm addicted and suffering withdrawal. It's sharp, but not overly strong, with beautiful blue veins, more like pockmarks, running through it. I love it in salads, but you could slice it thin and eat it on its own. It's that good.

Erica and Lorand opened Blue Danube in the fall. She lived and worked in New York City for many years and missed her neighborhood cheese shop. He was born in Hungary, which might explain the big bags of paprika the shop carries.

Blue Danube is on Jordan Street, in the heart of the village. It's a sweet little store full of great stuff: a refrigerator case stocked with big wheels of cheeses from around the world, like manchego from Spain and aged gouda from Holland; salami and other meats; breads baked at Mirbeau Inn and Spa, a couple miles down the road; baked goods and baking mixes from Organically Hip; spices; coffee, tea and related products; honey, jams, chutneys, spreads and sauces; authentic (and beautiful) Bolga baskets from Ghana, purchased directly from the artists and sold by Bluetree Studios of Syracuse.

Bolga baskets, for your marketing -- and picnic -- needs.

They have dynamite New York cheesecake (or so I'm told!) and make their own cream cheese spreads to enhance your enjoyment of bagels. Their cheeses are served on a cheese plate appetizer at the nearby Sherwood Inn. And they plan to hold more events at the shop in the future, like cheese tastings and wine pairings.
Drunken Goat, on the right, from Spain, is a cheese soaked in red wine, hence its name.

Just add coffee.

Meanwhile, imagine the possibilities when it's summer in Central New York:

You and your "other.'' A picnic basket. A bottle of wine. A stop at Blue Danube. Provisions! A stroll to the lake. A blanket on the lawn. A lazy summer afternoon.

It's 20-something degrees and a heap of heavy, wet snow is falling. A girl can dream, right? Blue Danube is at 33 Jordan St., in Skaneateles. Call 315-685-3774.

 

We Heart New York!

We could have eaten a hotdog, gyro or other "street meat.''

We could have eaten noodle dishes or Korean barbecue at Madangsui, a restaurant right next door to our hotel on West 35th Street in New York City.

We could have eaten mussels and frites and coq au vin at Brasserie Athenee, a French restaurant on West 46th Street, where we stopped in for a beer.

There is so much to see and do and eat in New York City. But we had a reservation at Becco to keep!

 

We really went to NYC for the Bauhaus show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The show, with more than 400 works to take in, did not disappoint.

But a girl and guy have to eat, and it's easy to get overwhelmed, even in doing research, by the thousands of restaurant choices in a city like New York. So we relied on the recommendation of John Wisniewski, an old friend who works in Manhattan and lives on Long Island, and made a reservation via Open Table (the online restaurant reservations system works like a charm) for dinner at his favorite restaurant. Becco, owned by Lidia Bastianich, host of public TV's "Lidia's Italian Table,'' takes its name from the Italian word "beccare,'' which means to peck, nibble or savor in a discriminating way.

It's best known for its fixed-price lunch ($17.95) and dinner ($22.95), which comes with a Caesar or house salad and includes unlimited, table-side servings of three house-made pastas and sauces.

At Becco: House-made linguine with fresh clam sauce and farfalle with tomato sauce.

That's a heckuva deal, especially in New York, where it's easy to drop well over $100 for dinner.

 

A tray of bread and plate of olives arrive the minute you sit down.

We went for the full Becco experience, munching on bread, antipasti and salad, ordering the pasta as a first plate, followed by "secondi'' of osso buco (a beautiful braised veal shank) for Robert and roasted whole fish special with crispy potatoes and leeks for me.

The restaurant also offers a wine list with dozens of $25 bottles, and we made a good choice with a bottle of Taurino Notarpanaro, a full-bodied red from Puglia, in southern Italy (the boot heel).
Times Square on a Friday night.

We were glad for a 15-block walk back to our hotel, and swore there would be no need to eat any time soon the next day. But the Hotel Metro serves a nice continental breakfast (coffee, juices, bagels and cream cheese, yogurt, hot and cold cereals) in a lovely setting, which fueled us for a 20-block walk up Fifth Avenue to MoMA on a brilliant, sunny morning.

Hungry for lunch after all that art viewing, we hopped in a cab and asked the driver to take us to Chelsea Market, a food lover's paradise in the former National Biscuit Co. complex on Ninth Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets.

Customers line up for the choice seafood at The Lobster Place, in Chelsea Market.

The place is filled with restaurants (Buddakan, Morimoto), several bakeries (Ruthy's, Sarabeth's), seafood, wine, chocolate and produce emporiums, coffee and gelato stands, a kitchen supply store and more.

 
Anything and everything a cook needs is at Bowery Kitchen Supply, in Chelsea Market. 

We walked into a little sit-down restaurant called The Green Table, and thanks to good dining karma, scored a table for two with a view of the busy marketplace just like that.

No reservations, just good timing.

The Green Table is a cozy, casual restaurant, with menus built around organic produce and ingredients from local farms and purveyors.

Robert had a chicken dish served with Tuscan kale and cheesy mashed potatoes, while I had the soup of the day (curried lentil) and a wonderful salad of microgreens topped with sliced pears, candied pecans and bits of cheese, dressed in a nice, light vinaigrette.

 

That lunch was the healthiest thing we ate all weekend, until we decided to top it off with a trio of house-made ice creams: vanilla, chocolate and hazelnut.

Can you spell yum?

I mean Y-U-M!

We Heart New York!

Road food, Adirondack style

You don't go to the Adirondacks for fine food -- unless you're heading someplace spiffy, like Saratoga Springs or Lake Placid.

You go to the Adirondacks for fresh mountain air, fall foliage (a little past peak, but very golden just the same) and simple, hearty fare.

And spectacular scenery like this:

Near Big Moose Lake; photo by Robert Poormon

Blue Mountain Lake, from the Adirondack Museum.

We spent a weekend in the central Adirondacks earlier this month and were rewarded with three rain-free days, perfect for visiting Great Camp Sagamore, near Raquette Lake, and the Adirondack Museum, in Blue Mountain Lake. It was cold and crisp in the morning and at night, but the sunshine was downright brilliant at times.

Whatever your destination is, food is going to come into play. Here are some rules for the road: 1. Consider a hotel that includes a restaurant. In the Adirondacks, more places than not close for the season this time of year -- or close and reopen for snowmobile season. Our base of operations was the Van Aukens Inne, in Thendara, a couple miles from Old Forge. The rooms are comfortable, and the historic inn, across the street from the Thendara station of the Adirondack Railroad, has a tavern and restaurant, where we relaxed with dinner and a couple of drinks Friday night.

The food, a scallops special and a huge salad with beef and bleu cheese, wasn't any thing out of the ordinary, but it was decent. And generous. The best part of all was saying goodnight and heading upstairs, rather than getting in the car again.

2. Ask the locals where they like to eat. A bartender at Van Aukens recommended the Muffin Patch, on Route 28 in Old Forge, for breakfast, and we were not disappointed. The Muffin Patch is comfy and cozy, a little more upscale than your basic diner, with homemade muffins, breads and sweet rolls. The menu also offers breakfast sandwiches, mega omelets and more. 3. Never underestimate the power of the words "pancake house'' on a restaurant. Keyes Pancake House, in Old Forge, also came highly recommended. It was packed with families on Sunday morning and a line for tables snaked out two doors. Such is the scene every day, according to our waitress.

 

Pancake lovers pack Keyes Pancake House, Old Forge.

Try the blueberry pancakes, and spring for the pure New York maple syrup. 

4. Just because you don't see any cars, don't assume that a place isn't open for business. "Welcome to the Adirondack Park after Columbus Day,'' said our host, bartender and waitperson at the Hard Times Cafe, on Route 28 in Eagle Bay, eight miles north of Old Forge. We walked into an empty bar and restaurant about 4:30 p.m. on Saturday and asked if the place was open.

The response from behind the bar: "The door wasn't locked, was it?''

Nope.

The place, like most in this part of the Adirondacks, is casual as can be, with a small bar and a dining room off to the side. We downed beers and huge burgers, served with fresh-cut fries on the side. The specials that evening included lasagna and other pasta dishes, and the place filled quickly with the heady aroma of garlic and tables of diners.

5. Carry some trail mix in the car, just in case. In addition to dozens of exhibits dotting its landscape, The Adirondack Museum, in Blue Mountain Lake, has a Lakeview Cafe, with fine views of the lake and a casual menu of soups, salads, sandwiches and a few other things.

Our visit coincided with the museum's closing for the season, so it was a good thing we bulked up at breakfast. Pickings in the cafe were pretty slim.

End-of-season turkey chowder, Lakeview Cafe, Adirondack Museum.

In warmer weather, pack a cooler and picnic lunch and spread out a blanket on the museum grounds for lunch. 6. Don't worry if the road isn't paved: Even people who live in the most remote corners of the mountains need a place to eat and drink. The Stillwater Hotel, on the western shore of the Stillwater Reservoir, is a magnet for nature lovers, campers and vacationers during the warm weather months and for snowmobilers in the wintertime.

Stillwater Reservoir from the Stillwater Hotel; photo by Robert Poormon.

The place is operated by Marian and Joe Romano, who fell in love with the Adirondacks and moved there from New Jersey, and features house specialties such as steaks, seafood and Marian's signature lemon pepper chicken soup. We enjoyed a Saranac pale ale, chilled to perfection, and chatted with Joe the owner as he took care of two tables for lunch.

7. Don't assume a hardware store has nothing in store for food lovers. Old Forge Hardware, on Fulton Street, just off Route 28, is an authentic general store, in business since 1900. The store sells everything from canoes and camping gear to candles, clothing and rustic Adirondack furniture.

Among the foodie things you'll find:

Soup mixes to enjoy during your stay, or at home.

Enamelware in one of my favorite colors.

An abundance of cookware.

And bakeware, too.

Teapots in all colors, shapes and sizes.

Who could come away without a moose cookie cutter?

Not me!

What better reminder of our Adirondack adventure than gingerbread moose cookies at Christmastime?