Eat First

Benefit Sunday for Circa's Alicyn Hart: Sometimes, life hits you in the head

When Alicyn Hart started seeing what looked like "flashing lights,'' she knew something was wrong.

A friend who's also an opthalmologist told her to go to the emergency room. Doctors ordered tests, and tests revealed she had a brain tumor. She underwent surgery at Crouse Hospital in March, and surgeons removed a large, benign brain tumor.

"I feel good,'' says Alicyn, chef and owner of  Circa, a restaurant (and food market) in Cazenovia spotlighting seasonal menus that change weekly and emphasize locally sourced produce, meats, cheeses and other ingredients. "I hate to be anti-dramatic,'' she adds with a laugh. "It's been six weeks now. ... If you're gonna have a brain tumor, the tumor I had, I guess, is one of the better ones to have.''

Through it all, Alicyn has remained in high spirits and retained her signature sense of humor. The surgery itself and the medication she is taking have sapped some of her energy ("I get tired," she says) but she is on the rebound. She's back to work at Circa three days a week and hopes to return full-time soon.

Alicyn is grateful to Circa assistant chef Paul Cox and her staff, who rallied to keep Circa running  in her absence, and to the Cazenovia community for its concern and support.

 

To celebrate her recovery and to lessen the load of her medical bills, the community is holding a “Tumor-Free, But Still A Freaking Headcase!”  bash for Alicyn on Sunday at the Nelson Odeon, 4035 Nelson Road, Cazenovia. The public is invited to attend. Donations are encouraged, and will be collected at the door.

The event will be held from 1 to 5 p.m. and will feature food prepared by Circa’s  Paul Cox using products from Meadowood Farm, Cazenovia and other local growers. Brewery Ommegang, Empire Brewing Co., Cafe Kubal and others will provide beer, wine, soft drinks and coffee.

Taking the stage will be John Kelsey, Tumbleweed Gumbo, Anthony Greacen, and other artists.

For more information, call Neil Miller at 315-560-1580 or email nmiller23@twcny.rr.com.

Say hello to Consuela’s West Side Taqueria and BBQ

Most of the time, we choose restaurants based on the food.

Sometimes, though, we choose to visit a place out of curiosity – and because we want to support it and see it succeed. And because of the food.

Such is the case with Consuela’s. In November, funeral director and neighborhood booster Jan Maloff opened a taqueria and barbecue restaurant on the Near West Side of Syracuse. It is his hope, he has said, that it become a gathering place for residents and families in a traditionally underserved part of Syracuse, many of who don’t have cars.

I visited Consuela’s for lunch recently and hope you’ll check it out, too.

THE VIBE: Casual, comfortable and colorful. The dining room has about 8 tables, mostly for parties of four or six. The walls are bright green, the tables and chairs bright red and purple. Eclectic artisan accents add to the vibrancy.

THE MENU: Mexican, Cuban and Puerto Rican items, like tacos, burritos, empanadas and quesadillas, plus barbecue, with most items priced $6 to $8. Fried haddock is available Fridays only.

CHOWING DOWN: On seeing the house-made taco bowls that hold hearty main-dish salads, I knew what I would be having. Items are prepared taqueria style at the counter and options are abundant. Besides shredded barbecue chicken, my salad bowl contained rice and black beans, lettuce, tomatoes, diced pepper and onions, sliced jalapenos and olives, plus salsa, sour cream and guacamole -- and a sprinkle of fresh cilantro.

Can you say filling? I made a good dent in the bowl, but couldn’t finish it.

WHAT’S A VEGETARIAN GOING TO FIND? Items like the tacos, burritos and salad bowls are available vegetarian, with beans (black or pinto) and rice, plus your choice of veggies and condiments.

LIQUID ASSETS: Consuela’s does not have a liquor license; you can bring your own wine and beer. For now, the drink selections are limited to bottled water, Goya fruit juices and sodas and coffee. 

THE DAMAGES: $10 plus change for the salad and a bottle of water, plus $1 for the tip jar.

THE NEXT TIME: I’m bringing a dining mate, for sure, so we can sample several things off the menu, like fish tacos and empanadas. Or empanadas and a quesadilla. Definitely empanadas!

CLOSING THOUGHTS: I was impressed by the thoughtfulness of the staff, who not only made my chicken taco bowl salad precisely to order, but checked in several times to make sure I was pleased with my food. I was!

THE DETAILS: Consuela’s is at 523 Marcellus St., Syracuse, two blocks off West Fayette Street. Information: 474-8226. WiFi is available.

 

McShane’s chicken: No improvements needed

Courtesy of McShane's

Update: The "Restaurant Impossible" episode featuring McShane's airs at 10 p.m. Wednesday, Nov. 9, 2011, on the Food Network.

Food Network’s “Restaurant Impossible’’ and host Robert Irvine came to Central New York in August to give McShane’s Restaurant and Pub, in DeWitt, a makeover.

A crew spent several days cleaning and decluttering the place, painting, removing carpeting, intalling new flooring and otherwise enhancing and improving the place – all in an effort to increase the restaurant’s visibility and boost dinner trade.

One thing they didn’t get their hands on, according to a reliable source (our waitress, Heather) is the restaurant’s signature seasoned half-chicken.

The chicken is deep fried without embellishments – no batter or breading -- then dressed with a dry rub of “secret” ingredients: salt, pepper, garlic powder, paprika and maybe a little chili powder, if we were to venture a guess.

The chicken is crisp on the outside, moist and tender on the inside – and yes, a little bit greasy. That’s OK sometimes, right? At $9.95, the chicken is good bang for the buck. It’s served with fries and coleslaw, a house salad and basket of Italian bread with garlic-herb butter. 

I never set foot in McShane’s until recently, so I can’t really address improvements in dining room aesthetics (in its past, I’m told, it was dark, dreary and carpeted).

But I can tell you the house-special chicken is a winner, and worth checking out when you’re in the neighborhood.

McShane’s is at 6801 Kinne Street, DeWitt, about two miles from Carrier Circle. Information: 315-463-9950. The “Restaurant Impossible’’ segment featuring McShane’s will air in November – no set date yet.

 

Destination NYWCC: FLX/NY food, wine and fun

 Life's short. Eat dessert first?

Woo-hoo! Another weekend is upon us. But we’re still savoring the soul-satisfying day trip and leisurely lunch we had last weekend in the Finger Lakes.

For Christmas, we received a gift certificate to the New York Wine and Culinary Center in Canandaigua. As happens with gift certificates sometimes, its expiration date was nearing.

We visited the website and considered signing up for a culinary class or kitchen skills workshop. There are plenty of them, including pie making, bread baking and farm-to-table outing and meal prep in the center’s state-of-the-art kitchen.

In the end, we decided to make a reservation at the Taste of New York restaurant. The restaurant had just introduced its early fall menu, which still features many summer flavors.

Among the things we enjoyed:  

Wine flight ($12; choose three) with Anthony Road dry Riesling, Long Point Ciera (semi-dry rose) and Dr. Frank Old Vine Pinot Noir. I would be happy to have a bottle of each of these wines in our cellar. Robert’s beer flight ($8; choose four) featured a couple pale ales and an interesting fruit ale (blueberry) from Long Island.

Cold smoked salmon with capers, red onion, radishes and arugula salad ($11).

White pizza with mozzarella and Parmesan cheese, caramelized onion, pepper Flakes and garlic oil ($11).

Chilled gazpacho with basil, cilantro, avocado and heirloom tomato, swirled with spiced sour cream ($8).

Butternut squash ‘flan’ on a thin layer of spice cake, garnished with what appeared to be browned bits of candied ginger. A dessert made to match the changing seasons.

Canandaigua is a great walking town on a nice day (don’t miss the historic boat houses at the city pier), and we intentionally parked a distance from the NYWCC, in the shopping distance on South Main Street, knowing a walk after lunch would be in order.

It wasn’t our first trip to the New York Wine and Culinary Center, and it definitely won’t be our last. Thank you, Eileen and Dave, for a great day!

The New York Wine and Culinary Center is at 800 S. Main St., Canandaigua, overlooking the pier. Information: 585-394-7070.

 

EatingDelicious at Zabroso (thanks LivingSocial!)

Sometimes we tire of the frequent e-blasts in our inbox from LivingSocial and Groupon. But we don’t want to miss out on a good thing (Hello! tasty restaurant deals) and act fast when we see a discount on a restaurant we’re already fans of or want to try.

When a half-off food deal at Zabroso arrived one morning (pay $30 for $60 worth of food), we clicked “buy now’’ so quickly the keyboard was smoking.

Zabroso – derived from the Spanish word sabroso, meaning delicious – is one of the most original and creative restaurants in Central New York. Its calling card is authentic Spanish and Latin American cuisine, prepared with care and flair by chef-owner Ruben Lopez, a native of Puerto Rico and graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. 

We decided to put our Zabroso voucher towards a special dinner for Robert’s birthday and sample a smorgasbord of tapas -- small plates of anything and everything – olives, cured meats, seafood, paella, croquettes, you name it -- as a meal. 

We sipped glasses of red wine and fruity housemade sangria, toasted life and birthdays, mulled our options and shared a succession of plates and bites. Among the highlights: 

Papas Bravas: More than a month after our dinner, the memory of Chef Ruben’s crispy potatoes and aioli (a savory, garlicky mayonnaise) makes Robert smile and declare: “The best potatoes…I’ve had… in my entire LIFE!’’

Roasted beet salad: Warm goat cheese, roasted beets and almonds, crowned with spring greens. Can you say wonderful combination of flavors and textures. Did not want to share!

Grilled asparagus with Serrano ham and truffle oil: Another feast for the eyes and taste buds.

Meat and seafood, in one bowl: Chorizo (a chili and garlic flavored sausage) and clams. The dish was slightly sweet, thanks to the clams, and slightly spicy, thanks to the sausage, with broth to mop up with a crusty roll.

Chef Ruben's flan (traditional Spanish custard with creme caramel) is, in a word, outstanding. And Robert was delighted with his Latin-flavored birthday cake: Coconut and Spiced Rum Tres Leches (meaning "three milks''), a moist, dense sponge cake served with grilled pineapple salsa. Hold the candles.

Tapas prices at Zabroso range from $4 to $12 per plate. We shared six, in all, not including dessert. Our waitress said most diners order three to five apiece for passing and sharing with the table.

Our LivingSocial voucher covered a portion of this special dinner. After the discount was applied, our tab came to $37, plus $20 tip. Was it worth it? Absolutely. The Zabroso dining experience lives up to its name: Delicious.

Next time, we’ll skip the small plates in favor of a big, fat pan of one of Chef Ruben’s signature paellas. And we’ll be keeping an eye out for more daily dining deals!

Zabroso is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday and for lunch on Fridays. Brunch is also served Sundays, depending on the season. The restaurant is in the historic Oneida Community Mansion House, 170 Kenwood Ave., Oneida (Sherrill). Check the website for more information or call 315-363-3360.

 

Guacamole with Central New York flavor

 

Avocados…Mmmm! So green. So luscious. So rich. So delicious.

So… not from Central New York!

Most of the Hass avocados you see in grocery stores are from California, Mexico and Central and South America. A fruit that once was considered foreign is now available 365 days a year, and they travel a long way to get here.

Even at two for $5, we can’t resist ‘em every now and then to add to sandwiches and salads – or to just slice and eat on their own. We also like to mash them into guacamole -- always a hit at parties.

Here’s a guacamole treatment with ties to Central New York.

The recipe is adapted from the Guacamole a la Mission recipe that Steve Morrison, owner of The Mission Restaurant on East Onondaga Street in downtown Syracuse, shared with former Post-Standard restaurant reviewer and food writer Yolanda Wright some years back.

Pick up some Terrell’s deli-style tortilla chips (the hometown brand!!) and watch the guac disappear.

Mission Guacamole a la Margaret

4 ripe Hass avocados

¼ cup finely diced red onion

1 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and ground

½ teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

Juice of half a lime, or to taste

¼ cup minced cilantro leaves

Slice avocados in half, top to bottom. Remove pit and skins and place avocado “meat’’ in a large bowl. Mash the meat using a potato masher or fork until desired consistency – we like guacamole slightly chunky.

To the bowl add red onion, cumin seed and salt and stir well. Add the lime juice, starting with juice of half a lime. Stir and taste for seasonings. Add more lime juice and salt, if desired, and stir again. Add cilantro and blend well.

 

Transfer guacamole to a smaller bowl and cover with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap into the guacamole. Don’t make guacamole too far in advance of serving it. It will oxidize, turning a brownish green. If this happens, stir again before serving.

Serve with tortilla chips. Enjoy! 

 

 

Pumpkin Hill Bistro: Country comforts on Cayuga Lake

I can drive by the Mackenzie-Childs store and Vintage Lighting in Aurora (sometimes), but I can’t be anywhere near the lovely village on the east side of Cayuga Lake without feeling the pull of Pumpkin Hill Bistro.

It hasn’t happened yet, at any rate. A business and pleasure trip brought me to Aurora last week, and I was seduced, once again, into having lunch on the back porch at Pumpkin Hill, overlooking the fields and rolling hills leading to the lake.

It was a perfect day for it, too: Sunny and breezy with temperatures in the mid-‘70s. What a nice way to celebrate the first official day of summer and the longest day of the year.

THE VIBE:  The restaurant is in a rehabbed 1820s farmhouse, the Sellen House, which was moved to Pumpkin Hill and parked in the middle of more than 20 acres. The dining areas are very country. Owners Terry Dewis and Andy Casas have described Pumpkin Hill as “a little like ‘Little House on the Prairie’ crossed with an English pub.’’

LIQUID ASSETS: Fresh-brewed iced tea and freshly-squeezed lemonade served in mason jars, plus beer, wine and other adult beverages to wet your whistle.

THE MENU: That’s the realm of Susanne “Cookie” Wheeler, Pumpkin Hill’s executive chef, and country-comfort food with gourmet touches sums it up. You’ll find old favorites like Cookie’s chicken pot pie and shepherd’s pie and new favorites like tapas, the chef’s twist on small plates, designed for sharing.

The restaurant sources much of its produce locally, and shines the light on center-of-the-plate items, too, like Finger Lakes Maple Farm duck breast.

DECISION TIME: I took a pass on soups, hot and cold sandwiches and lunch-sized entrees in favor of the Aurora Salad ($8.99). It features fresh spinach leaves packed into a small colander, along with sliced apples, candied walnuts, crumbled bacon and cubes of sharp New York State cheddar cheese, tossed with just the right amount of house-made maple vinaigrette dressing. It was served with a warm roll and was delicious down to the last bit of bacon.

Eat cute: The Aurora Salad.

WHAT IS SOMEONE WHO DOESN’T EAT MEAT GOING TO FIND? Multiple choices, including a black bean burger on grilled ciabatta bread, topped with greens, tomato relish and cilantro dressing. And the day’s harvest, a selection of fruit, vegetable and grains that changes according to the season.

WHAT’S FOR DESSERT? I opted out, but a chef named Cookie does not disappoint in this department. You’ll find cakes, cookies, cobblers, crisps, pies, puddings and more. The check was delivered with two tiny Snickerdoodle cookies, each about the size of a quarter.

THE DAMAGES: $14.81, including tax, tip and a glass of iced tea.

VITALS: Pumpkin Hill is at 2051 state Route 90, on its namesake, Pumpkin Hill, about four miles south of Aurora. During the summer, the restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations are accepted by phone only: 315-364-7091.

NEXT WEEK: Read about a charming food and wine store in the village of Aurora. 

The view from the back porch at Pumpkin Hill Bistro

Speedy Greens: A REALLY healthy CNY restaurant

Imagine a restaurant 100 percent committed to your health and wellness, with a chef who uses fresh, organic produce and organic ingredients as much as possible, stays away from the salt shaker and keeps fat and calorie content in check.

Imagine a restaurant where vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free items get top billing and center-of-the-plate treatment.

You’re not dreaming. This is reality at Speedy Greens, a restaurant, store and healing arts/education center in Cicero. It's owned and operated by Cathleen Kelly, a certified holistic health nurse.

The restaurant and store occupy the first floor of an old house on Route 11. Upstairs, Kelly offers Reiki, reflexology, stress management and nutritional-wellness consultations. The restaurant, open since 2007, is an outgrowth of Kelly’s primary work. If you’re trying to eat more healthily, Speedy Greens is your Rx.

THE VIBE: Warm and bright, friendly and intimate, with about five tables, total. Kelly cooks in a small kitchen, assisted by her daughter, who also waits tables.

LIQUID ASSETS: Kelly’s fresh carrot juice made a splash as last year’s Taste of Syracuse. You’ll find that juice on the menu, along with vegetable juice, organic lemonade, tea (regular, herbal, ginger), coffee and hot cocoa.

THE MENU: Offerings include greens and feta quiche, vegetable lasagna, veggie pad Thai, a black bean burger, butternut squash ravioli tossed with olive oil and parsley and vegetables and brown rice with ginger-garlic sauce. You’ll also find soups, salads and wraps.

WHAT’S A CARNIVORE GOING TO FIND? The closest thing to meat on the menu is Kelly’s “famous” Tongol tuna burger, baked with celery, cheddar and green olives.

LUNCH: I started with a bowl of carrot and parsnip bisque, which was thin, light and refreshing, and to my taste buds, in need of a little salt and pepper.

A tortilla pizza ($8.49) was thin, crispy and delicious: a tomato-basil "wrap" topped with fresh tomato sauce, spinach leaves and a sprinkling of mozzarella cheese.

DESSERT: Sweet treats include Kelly’s signature Un-Cheesecake, made with tofu. Healthy cookies and muffins are also available. I opted for a cup of organic coffee ($1.89) for the road and look forward to stopping back for a carrot muffin.

THE DAMAGES: Just under $20, including tax and tip.

THE DETAILS: Speedy Greens is at 8169 Brewerton Road (Route 11), Cicero. The restaurant is open six days a week (closed Mondays) and serves brunch on Sundays. Information: 315-752-0333.

 

When in Rome: Dine at Vescio’s Franklin Hotel

When in Rome (Oneida County), do as the Romans do: Eat at a local Italian-American restaurant.

Following a recent art opening at Siena Arts in downtown Rome, we took the advice of a friend who works at the Oneida County Courthouse and made our way to Vescio’s Franklin Hotel for an early dinner.

We weren’t alone. Shortly after 5 on a Saturday, the restaurant, in a rundown former hotel in a somewhat rundown neighborhood, was full of families and large parties enjoying classic Central New York “red sauce” fare at easy prices.

THE VIBE: Casual, unpretentious, lively and friendly. The main dining room is long and narrow, with a bar to one side and tables topped with paper placemats.

THE MENU: Extensive. The printed menu soups, salads, appetizers, chicken and veal dishes and a long list of pasta specialties, like homemade gnocchi and lasagna. There’s also a handwritten list of nightly specials.

WHAT’S A VEGETARIAN GOING TO FIND? Plenty of meatless options, like ravioli, stuffed rigatoni and the house special gnocchi with sundried tomatoes and basil cream sauce.

CHOWING DOWN: We started with a mound of the Greens Vescio ($8.50), a heavier version of the region’s signature dish than some we’ve sampled. The generous plate of escarole and cherry peppers was extra meaty and extra garlicky and loaded with cheese and breadcrumbs. We went easy on it, not wanting to spoil our appetites for our entrees, which come with soup or salad.

Shrimp fra diavolo ($13.99; off the regular menu) featured about eight nicely cooked shrimp, tossed with cherry peppers, mushrooms and capers in a chunky and spicy marinara sauce, served over perfectly cooked linguine.

Shrimp fra diavolo, Franklin Hotel-style

Less successful was Robert’s eggplant Parmesan ($10.99; a special that evening). The heavily breaded eggplant was mushy and overcooked – disappointing, in a word – and served with the same chunky sauce as the shrimp. The penne served with the eggplant was cooked to perfection like the aforementioned linguine.

WHAT’S FOR DESSERT? What isn’t for dessert? Pasticiotti, cannolis, cheesecake, layer cakes, Italian cookies and pastries. We exited the pastry counter cradling a small box holding a lobster tail and a lemon pasticiotti. Robert called the lobster tail, beautifully brown and crispy on the outside, oozing heavenly vanilla-scented pastry cream and dusted with powdered sugar, “one of the best things I’ve ever put in my mouth.’’ The lemon “pustie,’’ a single-serving Italian pie, featured a more flaky, delicate pastry than some we’ve sampled. The lemon cream filling was a refreshing change from the usual chocolate or vanilla.  

THE DAMAGES: Just under $50 for two draft beers, one appetizer, entrees, tax and tip. Dessert cost an extra $6.83.

WOULD WE GO BACK? Yes, but we might not go for dinner.  Robert’s recommendation: “Go for the desserts.’’

THE DETAILS: Vescio’s Franklin Hotel is at 301 S. James St., Rome. The restaurant is open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Stop at the ATM on the way; credit cards aren’t accepted. Information: 315-336-9974.

Santangelo's scores upset win at March Meatball Madness

Santangelo's went home with a gleaming trophy -- and the right to say "home of  the best meatballs in Central New York'' -- from Sunday's March Meatball Madness event at Drumlins in Syracuse.

Joey's took second place and two-time winner Aunt Josie's finished third.

But the biggest winner was Elmcrest Children's Center. The annual fundraiser sponsored by Dominick Tassone of Dominick's Restaurant on Burnet Avenue raised $15,000 for the center and its programs.

So many meatball-loving Central New Yorkers filled the banquet room at Drumlins to sample saucy balls made by a dozen participating restaurants that those who showed up at the door without purchasing tickets in advance were asked to please stand by until the line for the buffet donated by Dominick's had thinned a bit.

That spurred talk of moving the event to a larger venue next year.

In the meantime, Santangelo's has a year to savor its victory and keep that trophy polished.